Walsted
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Fort Worth, TX
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Quote:Originally posted by 46Tbird:
FWIW, ... it took 45mins to put it in and get it running.
Wow! I am planning on setting aside a couple of days to do the cam, timing belt, and a few other minor things. Is it really that easy?
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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe .
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segfaultxr7
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Joined:
Aug 2001
Cape Coral, FL
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Quote:Originally posted by 46Tbird:
Time to go scour the yards for a Ranger roller! FWIW, I did mine for $15 - and it took 45mins to put it in and get it running.
Did all 2.3 Rangers use this cam? What kind of performance increase did you see? Do you need any special tools to remove the cam? I guess I'll need the followers too. Did you see a performance increase, or is it mainly for longevity?
88 TC 5-speed
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Jonesy
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Joined:
Jan 2002
Hartford, AL, USA
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Seeing as I am going to need a new one, I need someone here to give me a good recommendation on what to build. Longevity is not my priorty [Image: biggrin.gif] I want something to give it a bit more performance. Someone let me know soon, I need time to go get it and get it installed before 10am tomorrow(WORK)
jonesy
Michael "Jonesy" Jones
87 Medium Red Clearcoat Metallic 5 speed
2 Tone Leather Interior, All options including factory sunroof/moonroof
168,500 miles - So Far
Mainly stock, K&N Filter, custom ram air
New paint job COMING SOON(repainting factory med. red with ghost flames.)
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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You can get a Ranger Roller and rollers from NAPA for under $200. The one you want would be an 89-93 Ranger, also used in the 91-93 Mustang 4 bangers. I don't think you will notice big performance gains but they are suppose to be nice on the low and mid range.
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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham
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Jonesy
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Joined:
Jan 2002
Hartford, AL, USA
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You got a A-230 cam, how is it?
Where ya get it?
Details my brotha, details! [Image: biggrin.gif]
Michael "Jonesy" Jones
87 Medium Red Clearcoat Metallic 5 speed
2 Tone Leather Interior, All options including factory sunroof/moonroof
168,500 miles - So Far
Mainly stock, K&N Filter, custom ram air
New paint job COMING SOON(repainting factory med. red with ghost flames.)
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Jonesy
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Joined:
Jan 2002
Hartford, AL, USA
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Man, fix one thing, something else screws up. Now when I stop somewhere, get back out, crank it up and it knocks and sounds like a freakin diesel. Running fairly good but blowing white smoke from the greenlights. Doesn't this sound like the oil pump to you all?
Jonesy
Michael "Jonesy" Jones
87 Medium Red Clearcoat Metallic 5 speed
2 Tone Leather Interior, All options including factory sunroof/moonroof
168,500 miles - So Far
Mainly stock, K&N Filter, custom ram air
New paint job COMING SOON(repainting factory med. red with ghost flames.)
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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Jonesy, sounds like it could be a head gasket
Have some one else start it and you smell the tailpipe. If it has a sweet smell (sort of like sour mash) it's coolant.
I got my A230 off e-bay. You can get them from Tiny Avenger
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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham
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Jonesy
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Joined:
Jan 2002
Hartford, AL, USA
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So a blown head gasket can make it knock like that? I'm sure you know more about this than I do, but I don't see how. I'm not losing any oil at all. Not saying you don't know what your talking about, just trying to understand the logistics of it all.
Break it down for me [Image: biggrin.gif]
Jonesy
Michael "Jonesy" Jones
87 Medium Red Clearcoat Metallic 5 speed
2 Tone Leather Interior, All options including factory sunroof/moonroof
168,500 miles - So Far
Mainly stock, K&N Filter, custom ram air
New paint job COMING SOON(repainting factory med. red with ghost flames.)
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46Tbird
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Joined:
Mar 2002
Euless, TX USA
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Quote:Originally posted by Walsted:
Wow! I am planning on setting aside a couple of days to do the cam, timing belt, and a few other minor things. Is it really that easy?
I thought it was. But my car didn't have the plastic cam gear cover [Image: wink.gif] . Use the same procedure to take the cam out of a roller and non-roller head:
Take the valve cover off and use a long flathead scredriver to push the valvesprings down and 'pop' the followers out from underneath the cam. Then use the shortest #3 Phillips you can find to get the two cam retainer screws off the back of the cam, near the firewall. Loosen the timing belt tensioner and take the belt off. The cam will slide right out. Do the same on your car, and then slide the roller cam into place and put the retaining screws back in. I used the same screwdriver to pop the followers back into place on the head. You'll have to take a look at it to see what I mean. Then turn the cam until the timing mark points to the same place your old one did. Re-install the timing belt. If you did it right (and didn't let the crankshaft or dist/oil pump gear turn), the engine will be in time and ready to run. I didn't have much trouble at all. Good luck.
Danny
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