Lately have been getting an annoying squeak every time I depress the clutch pedal.  Tried looking under the dash to see where I may be able to spray some lubricant but I just can't seem to get a good look as to where.  Definitely coming from under the dash area, at times it goes away but lately it's been somewhat annoying. 

Any ideas?

I have a raspberry pi tablet that will be replacing my stock gauge cluster. The tablet has a USB provision so the Pimp ECU can plug in and display any gauges I want. Speedo will be handled via GPS. The product supplier mentioned that it would be ideal for the tablet to be powered directly from the battery with an intermittent switch to avoid hard shut downs from a keyed ignition source. Here's what I'm thinking for the wiring:
Battery is mounted in trunk

10ga wire from battery to two prong toggle switch
10ga wire from Switch to fuse block (have other gauges in center console that are fed from this fuse block)
7.5A fuse (recommended from product supplier) to tablet power converter
Power converter plugs into tablet. Two wires; power and ground. Power goes to 7.5A fuse supply and ground is well ground. 

What's everyone thoughts on this? Seems simple to me; just making sure I'm not missing anything or if there's anything I'm overlooking.

What is the type of bulb used to illuminate the headlight bezel?  It is quite tiny and I can't see the number and I am unable to locate it in the shop manual.  I noticed the old bulb was out, then removed and replaced it and it started working, then would go out when installed in the bezel.  Now it won't work at all!  It may be the contact wire on the bulb as it doesn't appear to be a short in the wiring or bulb housing (wiggle test), but I can't really tell and would like to try a replacement bulb if they are available.

Seems the ignition lock is ready to fail, a few times I couldn't get the key to turn and the black ears you hold onto would actually start moving without the ignition lock turning.  I removed the old switch and found a small piece of plastic in the hole which may have been causing the binding issues but figure I should probably replace the ignition lock.

Couple questions...  

Is there any particular brand (standard, doorman, motorcraft) to get or are the all pretty much the same?

Is it possible to have a locksmith rekey the new ignition lock to use the old key if I have both lock cylinders and keys?

Seems it's always something these days!

So I just installed a new SPEC clutch in my 88 and I just wanted to say that there is not a better feeling of having the transmission slip into place after struggling for over an hour with two jacks, minimal light, transmission fluid dripping, and lying on your back. Had to do this job in my small garage with just ramps, two floor jacks and jack stands and it was one my most difficult clutch changes ever. All of the bell housing bolts were torqued tight to an ungodly amount, the four driveshaft bolts were cranked on, and I didn't have the correct 2.3 alignment tool and had to sand down another 1 1/16 x 10 spline one I had. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my clutch fork was in great shape as was the input shaft housing. Still after cursing at it for 2 days now, it feels good to have it back together.

   
I've been wanting one of these since 1987. I was a sophomore in high school, well it only took 34 years but I have one. A few quick questions for you all. Other than a bigger wheel selection, what was the reason you did the 5 lug swap? I plan on driving it as much as possible in the summer time. I'm not looking to make a race car out of it, but what are your favorite upgrades, mods? She will need tires soon and I'm trying to decide what my best options are. More to follow, Troy.

Was wondering if anyone is going to the Woodward Dream Cruise near Detroit in Aug, 21 2021?

http://www.woodwarddreamcruise.com/


Let me know and we can meet up somewhere.  

Joe

Has anyone tried one of these solid state IVR's from NPD?  They are set at 5v although I've seen some discussion that the voltage should be slightly higher (~ 5.4v?)  I guess that if it is a little low that the gauges will also read a little low?  It's a little pricey versus buying the components and building one but once you figure in the time and material and shipping costs (too bad radio shack closed) it may be worth the few extra $$$


NPD Solid State IVR

Hi Everyone,

I have an 88 Turbo Coupe with a large exhaust leak right behind & below the intercooler. I can feel exhaust right were the 90 degree elbow connects to the down pipe. For clarity, the other end of the elbow connects to the Turbo. Two vertical bolts hold the elbow and down pipe together.  


From the thread I found, it looks like there is no gasket for this connection. I'm looking for confirmation as my bolts seem tight. The pipe and elbow look to be in great/solid condition (the edges are smooth and uniform)  Car is stored and rust checked each year with 95k km (all stock & original parts). So if a interference fit, how can I have a leak there? 

This line is from the below thread:
 ".....and the turbo to downpipe is simply a tightened down interference fit."

https://turbotbird.com/thread-exhaust-ma...rbo+gasket

I got the car and now I want to drive it and I would like to be able to wear my seat belt while doing so except the latch doesn't even try to work.  Anyone have an extra seat belt latch for the diver's seat?  Blue interior would be a plus.