Hello

I need to get rear axles for my '84 TC.  My mechanic says they are not available.  Any ideas?

Thank you!!

I am about to start the DIY IVR project, as it’s probably physically impossible for my TC to have as much fuel in the tank as the gauge shows—and the Temp and Oil Pressure gauges are also unrealistically high.

After getting the OEM DIY apart I was surprised to see an adjustment is possible—rudimentary as it is. While I am 99% certain that the DIY one—as documented by vegas_ss and based on the one developed by Jeff Korn and Gary’s Garage Mahal, I am curious if anyone has ever tried to adjust this using the screw shown in these pictures here:

 https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.com/sc...p02r4&dl=0

https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.com/sc...f5w3p&dl=0

Admittedly unless you have a lot of patience, this adjustment is probably something you would not want to attempt. I wonder—out of curiosity, again—if there would be a way to test this out of the vehicle?

Such an adjustment might be helpful if you don’t want to attempt the DIY fix.

I recently purchased a 1988 Tbird TC. I will be reading threads and asking questions.

I recently purchased a 1988 Tbird TC. I will be reading threads and asking questions.

I would like to use a set of 1979 17” dia and up on my 1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. This has stock sepsion on it . I have seen other TC with this setup on them. What is need to be done to make it work.

I was out driving last night and the engine started to run rough, almost felt like a dead miss but once i limped it home i could hear the exhaust popping as if it jumped time. I checked my spark, spark is good. I just pulled the timing cover to check my marks and too my surprise it appears it did jump time. The belt is fairly new (replaced under 3 years ago by previous owner). I plan to get a new one since they are cheap. I don't have a timing light with me to check ignition timing but the distributor is tight and does not move. Any one had this happen/ any pointers on how to prevent this from happening again? 

I watched a video from a guy called gearjammer2300 on youtube the process to retime the engine looks simple and he did say you can flip the timing gear for the distributor around to get the arrow mark and make it easier to time. 

One last question, is there any timing belt/ tensioner that is better to go with? The one on the car now is a dayco belt.

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I have a question about the correct Motorcraft starter solenoid/switch for my 1987 Turbo Coupe.

I hesitate to use the word “solenoid” as technically that is the small device that typically sits on top of the starter and engages the starter pinion gear with the flywheel—what I need information on is the small round relay that is mounted on the left front fender within the engine compartment. This connects the battery to the starter and causes it to crank the engine—it’s technically a “switch” or starter relay.

I recently had one “go rogue” on me (this would be the second time in a few years) and refuse to disengage the starter from the flywheel. This was—as before—a NAPA one. Yeah, you might think, “Well Forrest, if it happened before perhaps you should stay away from that supplier”, right? I didn’t think it could happen again—what are the odds, right? Guess again.

So, looking at the Motorcraft options, I see one that has the four terminals (including the never-used “I” terminal)—WO133-1698717-MTR, for a 1987 Turbo Coupe, with VIN letter W…and one that has just three, which makes more sense to me. This one is F5TU-11450-BA (or also E9TZ-11450-B)—also known as SW-1951-C. According to the Amazon listing, this last one will NOT fit a 1987 TC, again with VIN “W”. It says it’s for a 1988 TC with VIN letter “T”.

It’s not just the Amazon listing that says that.

Why? Or, more precisely, why is it incompatible with a 1987?

Is it a voltage/current issue? Aren’t the two model years essentially the same?

I am most curious as to what this is about.

               
Hi All.  Just wanted to introduce myself and this beautiful 1985 Turbo Coupe I just bought.  20K original miles, One Owner.  The car drives like new and everything works (it's only been 2 days but so far so good).  Looking forward to looking through all of these threads.

The last six months when driving my 87 Turbo Coupe the radio would loose power then come back on by it's self then started to turn off when turning the wheel, then had to bump the key to get it to turn on. So I picked up a new ignition switch and R&R the old one and found the problem. It started to separate where you plug the wiring into, looks like a weak spot where it crimps on to the casting.

Looking for parts in West Michigan ...........
Have the tranny & bell housing already.

5 speed driveshaft
pedal assembly 
any other parts that are required to do this