Hello everyone, I’ve got a 88 turbo coupe 5 speed, 140k mile all original car. It runs and drives perfect unless I run it hard. At about 4000rpm the engine stalls or quits making power and when I shift it will die and run rough for a couple minutes after. After a couple minutes is starts running fine again. The local mechanics put new plugs, wires, cap rotor and new injector. Checked everything out but it still does the same thing. I would greatly appreciate any info on what I need to do to make it run right?

Hi, new to the whole turbo coupe scene. Currently been given the opportunity to build one and have some questions. Any input and any of the following questions is greatly appreciated. I should mention I want this to be a street reliable track ready car just nothing too wild.

•Gutting upper and lower intake worth it?
•Switch to a t3 or keep ihi
•Can I mount the stock Intercooler as front mount temporarily?
•mild cams? Hydraulic?
•stock throttle body? what could I run?
•changing pulley size going to make a difference?
•how much power can I make with how little money?
•how much timing should I run?
•bigger fuel pump?

What battery is being used in the 85-86 Turbo Coupes since Motorcraft is no longer producing the correct one.

Hi All, I have 2 aluminum spares $30. Each and E6 exhaust manifold $60. Plus the ride.
Thank you

Looking for a clean 84-86 TC leather shift knob please include price and picture. Thank you

I have an '88 Turbo Coupe for sale located in Columbus, Ohio
Dark Blue exterior and blue interior but swapped out the leather seats for grey cloth ones.
Starting to develop a wrist pin knock in cyl #2 and after owning a Turbo Coupe since I bought on dealership new in '87 I'm sadly moving on.
This car has a number of good and not so good points.
New Cooper Touring tires 98V rating.
Has a modified cylinder head with 1.89 intake 1.59 exhaust valves, high performance springs, bronze guides with positive seals along with Motorsport A237 roller cam with indexed cam gear.
T3/T4 turbo
Manual transmission
Optional rear wing
New NAPA battery
New radiator
Has damage to rear of left rear quarter panel & trunk lid
Clearcoat peeling and paint fading.
Will provide pictures on request

Now there are other things but I would prefer to talk to any interested party instead of typing back & forth. I want all prospective buyers to know all details about the car.
I can be reached as 614-546-7806 8:00am - 10:00pm eastern time.

Asking $1000.00 or best offer

Hey all,
 I have a donor car 88 TC and I will be using the engine/trans from it into a 90 fox body that has no harness at all in it. 

Im wondering whats involved in gutting the stock harness from the 88 TC and removing the big relay box from it to be used in the fox body? Or am I better off finding another harness from a different car?

Are any of the other Mustang stainless brake lines compatible with 87-88 TC's? Was going to go through and replace the 30 year old rubber and thinking stainless might be nice. Thanks

I have a donor 88 tc thats got a rough underside but good drivetrain. I have a roller fox body that has a 5 speed pedal assembly in it but thats it. Im wondering what parts ill need to gather exactly to make the tc T5 cable clutch?? Its going to need a clutch as well so I gotta do that while the motor is apart anyways. 

The only part is have now currently is a bare cable clutch bellhousing with no fork or anything. I might be over complicating this but id rather be fully prepped when it comes down to crunch time.

Hello all!

Forgive me if this is buried in the forums.  We finally got the 1988 Turbo Coupe to fire up!.

Valve timing seems to be 100% spot on.  We rotated the engine about a dozen times to ensure the camshaft and crankshaft marks where 100%.

In regards to the aux pulley for the oil pump and the distributor.  Could not see ANY visible marks for alignment purposes.  Zip, Zero, Nadda thing.  Researched everything from stars, blocks, lines, moons, clovers, anything else in the lucky charm variety we could think of.  Nothing at all on the pulley or the timing cover rear to indicate where it belongs.

So we checked the donor block where we removed the head.  I removed it leaving it 100% alignment in place.  That 1987 engine?  Also NO marks or anything on the pulley/cover showing it's timing position!  After consulting with Rod Sterling from the twilight zone...  We aligned the 1988 in our Thunderbird the same way as the 87'.  Both cars did run.  (Okay, like crap...and the 1988 we're going to put back on the road was blowing enough white smoke to kill every 'skeeter for a 5 mile radius.)

So given that the valve timing is 100%.  Anyone see problems if we just pull the distributor and manually 'clock' it back where it belongs?  Please let me explain that one....

I moved the disty a bit and it finally started up,  rough.. but it's a start!.   I pulled the SPOUT and checked base timing.  WOW!  Off by a country mile!  It was so far past TDC it was amazing!.  I rotated the disty counter clockwise until it was at 10' BTDC.  It ran smooth-  However the TFI module plug wiring was cranked into the lower intake where the coolant line runs.  Can't leave it there-  Ran great!  But the TFI can't stay there...

My gut feeling is that the aux pulley is off by at least 3 teeth-  (Judging by the amount of turn I had to rotate the disty to get the timing set.)

So question-  I can set the TDC on #1 easy.  Valve timing is 100%, so hows this sound?

Bumping it over until I feel air coming out #1

Verify #1 is at TDC both at crank pulley mark for TDC and the good ol' screwdriver test.  (watch the screwdriver go 'up' via the plug hole...Carefully of course.)

Pull Disturber out.

Rotate the shaft until the rotor is pointing at #1-right DEAD CENTER where it will align spot on with the cap tower.  (Taking into account the shaft will rotate when re-inserted into the engine.)  (And yeah, this is how we configured things at the start of this wing-ding...sense we have NO marks on that &%*#Y^ pulley or cover!)

Leave the retaining bolt slightly snug so the disty can be rotated with little effort.

Restart engine and set base timing after reinstalling the bits we had to remove.

And hopefully we get the 10' BTDC base timing set finally!!!!!

Or are we going to wind up chasing down phantom timing marks on that pulley that do not exist?  The car uses normal TFI ignition.  So there's no camshaft position sensor in use.  In theory we should be able to reclock the disty where it belongs and have it work for base timing.

Thoughts, ideas?  Anything is welcome.  And we've got time!  The car still needs brakes  (it currently has none) Exhaust...(sounded great once I got 10' BTDC...even with the disty cranked into the intake manifold... LOL)  And tires....   It's not going on the road until middle of spring...

S-