84 TC hardly runs w/ near completely new ignition system

Last attempt yielded no spark at the coil using a 10ga wire grounded to the frame. Didn't try timing light while cranking to try for spark.

I don't have another coil on hand but I do have another TFI.

What's bugging me is how I went a few days worth of troubleshooting the poorly running problem, then overnight seem to have lost spark (and thus start) with no other apparent change.

I'd suspect the ignition switch.

Are you getting a pulsing signal to one side of the coil when checked with a 12v test light?

Originally posted by Stinger:
I'd suspect the ignition switch.

Are you getting a pulsing signal to one side of the coil when checked with a 12v test light?

You mean while cranking right? If so, I haven't checked that yet.

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

I read what the guy wrote here and I'm wondering if this is your problem (and mine !) ??
In case the link is dead when you get to it, he wrote :

"A faulty ECU is one of the most common no start or random stalling problems with these cars. These can also cause issues with erroneous check engine lights, idle control problems as well as emission control & cold or hot start problems. I have also seen fuel pump relay turn on faults (ECU won't turn on the fuel pump), as well as an condition where the high speed injector driver has failed. This causes the car to sit and idle fine, but it won't accelerate."

Amongst other stuff.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merkur-XR4Ti-Ford-Sierra-Turbo-Engine-ECU-PCM-Computer-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e0f490f8QQitemZ360256409848QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fA ccessories#ht_1944wt_1026

Sigh. The struggle continues.

Put in a new ignition switch, no change.

With the timing light hookep up and aimed at me, it will about 50% of the time flash once as soon as I turn the key. Engine still cranks but with no spark. Checked both terminals of the coil again, both have 12V. Checked TFI voltages, 2 and 3 have 12V with key one and pin 4 has about 9V while cranking.

I'm totally at a loss here and really need to bet the TC running and moved. I can't think of much more beyond sitting there and staring at it...

Again, I feel your pain. I'm about two shakes away from a 302 with aluminum heads and intake and Pertronix ignition.
What do you think about the EEC ?

I wish I could help you out.

i had a dist a few years ago give out.. let me explain.
the car ran fine but when i get on it it felt like it was pulling timing and would die.. it would struggle to start and when it did stay running.
a week later it buck like 5 times and then nothing then it did it again about a mile at 45mph it buck then died and wouldn't restart.. no spark.
swapped TFI. nothing
swapped good used dist in started up.
took a look at the fail dist and the vane broke off the rotor/shaft of the dist. is yours loose??? mine was a lil rusty inside...

Watched the rotor turn as I turned the crank by hand today, but I'm not sure if the shaft is loose. This dist has less than 500mi on it also...

I have thought perhaps my EEC is going, but it's a hard thing to check. I'm bewildered at the moment by the recent chain of events and how it's all been going down hill. Speaking of the ECU, the night before my spark went away (last week), I had pulled KOEO and was trying to pull KOER again but couldnt get my reader going. Not sure if it was the reader or the ECU not talking.

My only next idea is to take my new coil back and have it tested and/or try another one. What else could it be??

Juuuuust rebuilt the motor last fall also. There's no turning back at this point but believe me, the words "5.0 swap" haunt me.

I found what seems to be the best resource I've seen so far for troubleshooting the EEC-IV ignition system.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_lib...ostic.html

After reading it over a couple times I am concerned about a couple things, also helps me confirm that I have proper voltages at pins 2/3/4 of the TFI for run & start. I am 95% sure that I see 12V at both (+) and (-) terminals of the coil with the key in run, as I interpret those instructions, there should only be voltage at one terminal with key in run and engine off? I'm also still worried as to why I have 4-5V on the igntion ground terminal of the TFI harness with the key in Run.

Can someone verify. I'd really appreciate it...

As you know, my car isn't running but if there's something that I can check for you then I'd be glad to. Also, I'm sure you've figured out by now that I don't know what I'm doing so you're going to have to walk me through what you want me to check.

On my coil I have a green wire and a red wire going into the electrical connector. With the key on, I have 11V going to the green wire and I also have 11V going to the red wire.

Is that helpful ? If I can check anything for you then don't hesitate to ask and I'll do what I can.

The next step for my car is to change the computer. Unfortunately, I might have to change the injectors too - which I don't want to do...

Good luck,
Dave