Questions and Praise !

First of all I would like to thank Pete D. for all his hard work in this forum ! For it was not for People like Pete we (TC owners ) would be floundering in a sea of trouble that our Birds cause us. Just last week I spent Hours using the search function (as Strongly recommended by Dan, in one of my first posts)Since I was new at that time didnt really know about this search function. I found a world of information that helped me on a multitude of levels (saved me towing and diagnosis at the dealer), My bird just unexpectedly died for no apparent reason. Thanks to all of you and this board, she is running great again !
Anyone wondering about the ignition on these cars....Take Heed and Listen to Pete and all on this board STICK TO MOTORCRAFT PARTS !!!!!!!!!!!!
My question is this, is there a better way to connect the boost gauge than to the vacuum tree, the reason I ask is because I get conflicting boost readings from my aftermarket gauge and the factory one? The factory gauge is higher when under boost.
Also after I have replaced all of my ignition with motorcraft, I still get a little bit of a flutter at high rpm ? I have read all the posts I can find on this and yet I cant seem to find anything I havent done to stop this? Or is this just something I have to live with...seems to be everybody experiances this to some degree.
Thanks for all the info !

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85TC, Custom cold air intake,K&N Cone, Intercooled, Gillis Boost Valve 16PSI, Spearco BPV, Full 3" Exhaust,with a Vortex Muffler, Looking for more Boost!
86 Camaro, 5.0L, 4bbl, K&N, MSD 6200 6A, Dynomax cat back system, Pace Setter Shorty Headers, Future twin turbo's (T3's of course)or I will just turn it in for a SVO

the factory gauges are not necessarly known for accuracy, especially at the high end of the scale. That's why many of us have after market gauges. The vacuum tree sees exactly what the upper intake sees in terms of vacuum or boost. The tree is fed by that big line coming off the upper intake.

On the flutter, if you are talking about when the pedal is floored and it doesn't seem to pull as strong as say 9/10 WOT, then the theory is that the EEC dumps more fuel to prevent detonation, which is good, but the mixture is too rich for max power. If that's not what your talking about, please ask again . Thanks for all the kind word for the site.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Good judgement comes from bad experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

Yes Pete that is exactly what I am experiancing, at full throttle.
Is there a cure for this?
"when the pedal is floored and it doesn't seem to pull as strong as say 9/10 WOT, then the theory is that the EEC dumps more fuel to prevent detonation"
I have the knock sensor disconnected, but I experiance the same regardless of whether it is plugged in or not.

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85TC, Custom cold air intake,K&N Cone, Intercooled, Gillis Boost Valve 18PSI, Spearco BPV, Full 3" Exhaust,with a Vortex Muffler, Looking for more Boost! NATO member (Chris Taylor)
86 Camaro, 5.0L, 4bbl, K&N, MSD 6200 6A, Dynomax cat back system, Pace Setter Shorty Headers, I think I will just sell it so as to make room for an SVO !

The cure is either get an EEC tuner and reprogram the fuel curve or reprogram your foot for 9/10 throttle. [Image: biggrin.gif] Remember that the extra fuel is to prevent detonation and engine damage. This is even more important when disconnecting the KS.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Good judgement comes from bad experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

Originally posted by turbobird63:
Yes Pete that is exactly what I am experiancing, at full throttle.
Is there a cure for this?
"when the pedal is floored and it doesn't seem to pull as strong as say 9/10 WOT, then the theory is that the EEC dumps more fuel to prevent detonation"
I have the knock sensor disconnected, but I experiance the same regardless of whether it is plugged in or not.

You could try an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and play with fuel pressure (up / down... depends on the car, and mods) to try to eliminate some of the problem. Worked for me.


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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)