North American Turbocoupe Organization



manual fan switch
xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Maybe I'm making this too difficult (been known to do that). I'm installing my 3G alternator this afternoon and while I'm doing that I want to put in a manual fan control switch. I've read the turboford FAQ method as well as the one from our tech section here. My question is do I wire the switch for the '88 TC differently, or can I use either of these instructions?

I'd prefer a switch over the automatic on/off and I also don't want to run anymore wires through the firewall if I don't have to.

TF instructions:
http://www.turboford.net/faq/fan_swch.shtml
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : 15.91@89mph / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage Gillis@ 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#2
Don't think this will work, as your IRCM is located under the hood on the passenger's side shock tower.

Why the need for a manual switch?
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Factory system operates fine, but I want the ability to turn it on/off myself (sitting in traffic, etc.). I'll run wires through if I have to, just looking for a "lazy" way to do it.
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : 15.91@89mph / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage Gillis@ 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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imjamesw Offline
Senior Member
#4
I used this as a guideline when I ran my toggle switch/relay combo on my 88. That other article doesn't make sense to me, looks pre 87.

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/fan_relay.htm

I didn't have time to wire it into the IRCM as it's done in the article. I cut the source wires to the fan and wired them to the relay. It was a matter of necessity when we were moving last summer.

The setup works great and I haven't had a problem at all. I'm planning on converting back to stock this spring, I just have to get that coolant line underneath the lower intake cleaned out. Who knows though, I may clean it out and decide to keep the relay control.

HTH

James
88 Medium Red Turbo Coupe. 172K. Stock. Horrible A4LD. 5k miles since 2006. She will be a part of my family as long as I am.
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xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Thanks, I forgot about that article. I had a brainfart when I saw the title and it didn't say fan switch in the title! I think I have that article saved on my hard drive actually ....
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : 15.91@89mph / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage Gillis@ 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#6
You can also use resistors and a switch to power the fan on. This way if you forget to manually turn the fan on, the IRCM will still turn it on.

You may have to use a diode. I am not sure where the ECM gets its reading from. You don't want to lie to the ECM, only the IRCM.

If you wanted to get real fancy, you could use a potentiometer and and have infinite control over what temperature your fan comes on at.
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
I had to use a diode between the switch and the relay to keep full amperage out of the switch(s) I was using. Smoked a couple until we figured it out.
Pete Dunham


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