North American Turbocoupe Organization



How to remove Master Cylinder Brake Assembly?
Ashok Offline
Junior Member
#1
I searched this forum without success for any tips or articles on how to remove the 87-88 TC's master cylinder brake assembly from the firewall?

The four big bolts that attach the brake assembly to the firewall has hex nuts on the inside- under the dash behind the instrument panel and two upper nuts appear inaccessible. Wondering if any special tools, like curved wrench, is required to remove the brake assembly?

I would really appreciate the wisdom from someone who has removed & installed this brake assembly.

THANKS, TIA
--Ashok 87TC, OREGON
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Ashok Offline
Junior Member
#2
Sorry, I initially posted this brake question in wrong area. I am new :-)
Now it is in the correct forum.
--Ashok 87TC, OREGON
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RK87TC Offline
Member
#3
For starters you almost have to take off the intake to get it out. A set of the flex-head gearwrenches is just the ticket for the 4 nuts inside on the firewall.
I tried it once without taking off the intake and wound up using a sawzall...lol....then I put plain vacumm boost brake package in so I'd never have to mess with that again. Now I can service the system if need be.
87 TC MM k-member package, EVM 3link/watts, Ess. d-port, 2277 solid cam, T3/04E 63 stg3/60, Spec III clutch, alum. flywheel, Stinger header-3" exhaust-FMIC-SDS-gillis valve, Cobra 17" polished wheels, moon roof, 5spd, K&N cone, 110 alt., 93 cobra MC/Booster, Steeda shifter.
Ralph
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evintho Offline
Senior Member
#4
IIRC, when I stripped my '88 parts car I dropped the steering column and was able to access those bolts with a 24" extension and a wobble socket. But I think for one of them I had to lay on my back with an open end wrench and turn it 1/8 turn at a time!
Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding.
Proverbs 3:5

1986 Turbocoupe 5-spd - New daily driver!
1988 Turbocoupe 5-spd - parts car.
1989 Mustang convertible (Thunderstang). Built '88 TC shortblock, head by Boport, R/R, T3, Bobs log, gutted, rotated, ported mannys, AFPR, LA3, NPR I/C, etc.
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Ashok Offline
Junior Member
#5
Ralph, good suggestion about FLEX-HEAD GEAR WRENCH. I don't own this tool but will be out looking to buy a set. It may do the job?. I assume intake manifold needs to be removed just to allow some clearance for the MC Assy to be pulled out. Thanks.
--Ashok 87TC, OREGON
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Ashok Offline
Junior Member
#6
John, thanks for tip on another special tool: WOBBLE SOCKET & EXTENSION. I may need to get this if the recommended flexhead gear wrench does not work for me.

You say to access one of the 4 bolts of the MC Assy behind the firewall, you had to "lay on your back with an open end wrench and turn it 1/8 turn at a time". Well, to do this, did you have to remove the driver's seat?

My MAJOR goal here is to "disrupt" fewest unaffected parts as possible in order to remove & replace the MC brake assembly.
--Ashok 87TC, OREGON
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RK87TC Offline
Member
#7
that 1/8 of a turn bolt/nut is just exactly what the flex/gearwrench is for and yes, taking out the manifold just makes it easier to get the d@#$% thing out of there. And no you don't have to take out the front seat. With the gear wrenches you don't even have to drop down the steering column if I remember right. They'll allow you easy removal of all the nuts.
87 TC MM k-member package, EVM 3link/watts, Ess. d-port, 2277 solid cam, T3/04E 63 stg3/60, Spec III clutch, alum. flywheel, Stinger header-3" exhaust-FMIC-SDS-gillis valve, Cobra 17" polished wheels, moon roof, 5spd, K&N cone, 110 alt., 93 cobra MC/Booster, Steeda shifter.
Ralph
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zerobudgitbird Offline
Member
#8
an air ratchet made unbolting it a 10 min job for me
1988 t/c,stone stock,230,000 mi and going strong
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Ashok Offline
Junior Member
#9
Aren't the air ratched bigger and bulkier than gear wrench? I wonder how you managed to squeeze the air ratched head onto the upper two nuts which are partially blocked by the steering rod.
--Ashok 87TC, OREGON
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