Clutch to buy?

Any suggestions on a more 'long-lasting' clutch to buy?
Centerforce I or II?
something else?
Cost is somewhat an issue, but want something that will hold up better than stock when 'slipping' the clutch.
Also, places to purchace them?
Was hoping to be in $250 range, but might need to spend more?
What else should I look into replacing when I replace the clutch?

Thanks guys,
Jonathan

I got a Centerforce II. It works nice and I got maybe 50 passes on it. Glenn had one blow on him, real quick and now runs a Star (Spec) as do several others. Talk to Scott at on pricing; http://www.angelfire.com/pa5/srracing/clutches.htm

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Letting the cat out of the bag is a whole lot easier than putting it back in.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

Be sure to have the flywheel resurfaced and a new clutch fork (about $12 or so from Ford) Replacing the pilot bearing would also be a good idea.

Thanks a ton guys!

As I've noted in passed posts, I am transplanting the 2.3 and T-5 into my 4wheeler (bought a totaled TCoupe for the donor motor)
I will be doing a lot of low RPM slipping of the clutch when rockcrawling, and was wondering if the Star should hold up as well as the centerforce? Are they basically the same principle/design?

Again, thanks for the fast responces!

Jonathan

You might want to read about the Spec stage II at the link above. Maybe that compsition would give longer life, but I don't know

I recommend the SPEC clutch that S&R Racing sells. I replaced my clutch last weekend with a SPEC Stage 2 setup. Great setup & feels really good. Only got about 25 Miles on her so far, but I would buy this one - hands down. Price is reasonable & its a complete kit. [Image: biggrin.gif]

While your in there, I agree with Pete to replace the Clutch Fork, Pilot bearing and get the flywheel re-faced. Make sure you get the right Pilot bearing from the dealer. There are 2 & they gave me the wrong one for my '88. Lucky for me they had the other one in stock. Also replace the rear main seal while you have the tranny out. Its better to spend an extra $8 -$12 & be assurred that no oil is going to leak & ruin a new clutch.

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Tony Sceia...Got a TC, Started working on it & progressing very slowly. Hope to have her running by the end of the summer.

Does a solid hub disc work well?

Originally posted by GaryS#2:
Does a solid hub disc work well?

Solid hub discs are not recommended on a street car.
I have one in my buggy and it grabs very abruptly and if I am on a hard surface with good traction it will chatter. Works great in the sand though. [Image: smile.gif]

Brent


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1985 Cougar XR-7 5-speed: C&A 5.7" Rods, Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, C&A ZGS Rings, ARP head/main studs & rod bolts, Esslinger Main Straps, Ported Big Valve Head w/Ranger Roller Cam, Port Matched Upper & Lower Intake, Motorsport FM Intercooler, Ported E6, Original T3, Gillis Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat & ’88 TC OEM Dual Exhaust, K&N, ’88 TC Front A-arms & Spindles w/ 73mm Calipers, ’88 TC Rear w/Disc Brakes, 3:73 Gears, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni's, Energy Suspension SB bushings, Hella H1/H4 headlight conversion, 140 Speedo.
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1986 asc/McLaren EuroCoupe - 1 of 47 made
1971 Ranchero
Hi-Jumper SSIII w/2.3L Turbo