WOT problems

I searched and wasn't able to find exactly what I wanted. '88 5sp(new cap and rotor, MC plugwires,new plugs, new fuel filter, in need of air filter): The car is idling erratic. It would stay at 900 RPM then just vary from 900 to 1500...900 to 1500 so on. Now at idle its a consistent 900 to 2000-3000 and it stays right at 3000 RPM, until you shut it off for the night. Theres that problem and during wide open throttle in first gear, the minute you hit second and give it gas it chugs, as if you put your hand over a tailpipe, only slower. If you push in the clutch it stalls immediately. During this time there is only about a 5-8 pound limit, nothing past that. It will take about 10 seconds or so to be back to normal operation. It only does this 1st to 2nd. All the other gears are fine WOT.
My seach made me lean towards the knock sensor pulling timing. I dont know if this and my idle problem are related...idle prob. search turned up a TPS.

I would suggest pulling th ecodes and testing the TPS. I'll send you some info on checking the VAM also.

I think pulling the codes would have helped but I chose another route. I checked the compression it was 120 1,2,and 3, but 4 was 125. That seemed a bit low to me, and I wanted to pull the motor to put stronger rods in before I had these probs. I noticed that when I pulled the intercooler it was very oily. When I removed the VAM to turbo inlet hose, oil POURED onto the ground. I know that this is not normal so I checked the VAM sensor and it was very saturated and fouled. Could this individually be the problem or a start?

Another thing....I'm going to need an oil feed line that goes around the head to the sending unit, a new EGR line, can I get these from Ford or an aftermarket dealer? I'm also replacing the fuel tank and pump (walbro 255) any suggestions on lines?

When you ran the compression test, was the motor warm, and the throttle plate at WOT, and the battery strong enough to crank it good and fast? If so, those compression #s are a little low. If some of the above conditions werent met, your #s may be just fine.

In any case, those #s will not lead to the problems you are having. As others have said, pull codes, test VAM, TPS, and also clean the IAC. DO you know what your idle vacuum is? Any chance of a vacuum leak?

Oil in VAM and hose is usually due to a PCV valve not sealing under boost, worn valve guides, or bad rings allowing lots of blowby.

EGR line: check 40Bobs post in the tools and useful devices forum.

The motor is rebuilt. Head was done as well. Pcv is new. I know that the PCV's are pains so I went to Ford and bought one. It has less than 3,000 miles on it. I doubt its faulty but I'll test it. BTW the motor was cold & throttle plate closed. Thanks for that info. My idle vacuum until the motor is warm is about 10 in. then when warm is about 18-20 in. Should I put Speed Pro rods or something else?

Compression test: http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Compr...n_Test.htm

You say the engine is rebuilt. Why would it need new rods. The problem you describe does not relate to rods unless there is more than yoiu have told us so far.

Do the things Jeff suggested and let us know. There is plenty of past posts on cleaning the IAC. There is a technical Article on the TPS. If you need VAM testing info, let me know

Rods have nothing to do with my problems I agree. I failed e-check from an oil leak. I'm fixing that. When the motor was rebuilt I put in forged pistons and now I'm installing forged rods. The motors apart, stock rods are very strong, yes, but no match for 400 Lb ft. Why take chances. The PCV was stuck open so I went to Ford and bought a new one for $9 and some change. I tested it with my lungs/mouth and it sealed very well. The compression numbers are fine I imagine, I was foolish about that I should have taken my time. Why would a new PCV fail prematurely?
[Disregard the 4th post please, just some b.s. Already taken care of ]