North American Turbocoupe Organization



won't start now, either!
Wags88TC Offline
Senior Member
#1
Sorry guys been gone a long time! 3 diff jobs in 4 years is not what I expected in my 50's. Finally gettin a little time to get back to the old girl.
A few years back i was driving and the TC just lost power, only a mile from home, so I limped in. I restarted it a few times but it had no power - almost sounded like 1 or 2 dead cylinders. I started doing some diagnostics couldn't find anything wrong (compression check -a bit low but not bad). Seemed like maybe fuel so I dropped the tank, the rubber hose had gotten soft and split. I replaced the hose drained out the gas added new cycled the key on a dozen times and purged the bad gas out of the line at the schrader. still wont run, even tried a shot of either - almost sounds like it wants to try to start but doesn't. Could it be a flat cam or broken valve? crank and cam timing is perf (TDC on comp. stroke) Dist. rotor pointing at #1. I've never done a leak down test, not real excited to take the cam cover off for a visual of the cam.
Any ideas
Steve Wagner
Nato member
84 SVO
88TC, 5 speed, StageII Star clutch w/ StageIII pressure plate,lightened flywheel, K&N in fender, gillis valve, 255lph Walbro, Kirban adj.FPR,Bypass valve, 3" exhaust (high flow cat/ Magnaflow muffler), A-pillar gauges(A/F & Boost), 16" ARE 5 spoke wheels 7" front 8" rear(225/50VR16 / 245/50VR16 Yokos'). Subframe connectors
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Steve, welcome back. I was just wondering a few days ago what you were up to?

It's pretty rare to break a valve although I have done it. Most likely the engine would lock or the block would get windowed.

Also unlikely that all cam lobes would get flat at the same time, to the point where it would not fire on all cylinders.

You can grab the dist rotor and see how much free play it has. If it's much at all, the shaft bearings may be worn or the gears worn. That might make it hard starting. Have you checked for spark at the plugs?

I understand purging the gas line but what about the injectors. Maybe they are gummed up. I'd check fuel pressure to.
Pete Dunham


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Wags88TC Offline
Senior Member
#3
Thanks Pete, I wish I would've kept a journal of all that I had done since the 1st day I bought the car. Senility setting in - "I think I've forgotten more than I ever knew".
I guess it's time to bit the bullet and start takin' things apart. I was thinking about the fuel rail, regulator, and injectors. I'll check fuel pressure again, as well as the filter. I guess I'll check for spark again also.
Steve Wagner
Nato member
84 SVO
88TC, 5 speed, StageII Star clutch w/ StageIII pressure plate,lightened flywheel, K&N in fender, gillis valve, 255lph Walbro, Kirban adj.FPR,Bypass valve, 3" exhaust (high flow cat/ Magnaflow muffler), A-pillar gauges(A/F & Boost), 16" ARE 5 spoke wheels 7" front 8" rear(225/50VR16 / 245/50VR16 Yokos'). Subframe connectors
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Wags88TC Offline
Senior Member
#4
So, I figured I'd give diagnostics 1 more chance - pulled the plugs, there's spark on all plugs! Also the Dist., not much play at all but was about 30 degrees off - it kinda tried to start after adjusting! Checked the fuel filter, full of bad gas but not really any restriction. Hooked up fuel pressure tester - got no pressure! how many times turning the key on to get it primed? Is there a better way to prime and check the pressure?
Steve Wagner
Nato member
84 SVO
88TC, 5 speed, StageII Star clutch w/ StageIII pressure plate,lightened flywheel, K&N in fender, gillis valve, 255lph Walbro, Kirban adj.FPR,Bypass valve, 3" exhaust (high flow cat/ Magnaflow muffler), A-pillar gauges(A/F & Boost), 16" ARE 5 spoke wheels 7" front 8" rear(225/50VR16 / 245/50VR16 Yokos'). Subframe connectors
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#5
how did it get 30 deg off? Unless you pulled it out and reinstalled it, the only way it can get off is of the timing belt jumped a bunch of teeth (easy fix - replace belt and tensioner) or the aux shaft has chewed the dist gear so bad that it isnt meshing much any more. (PITA to fix)

My bet is an old rotted timing belt with missing teeth.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Wags88TC Offline
Senior Member
#6
No, that's what happens when ya forget to tighten the dist. hold down bolt, and the dist rotates. I think timing perfect,I think? #1 cylinder TDC (on compression stroke) crank pulley at 0 - cam at 0 (center of the 3 plastic fingers) - the dist. at about 1 oclock #1 plug wire.
With 0 fuel pressure at the schrader(I can here the pump prime when I turn the key on) I'm thinking FPR, or walbro has gotten weak - 6-7 years old with about 20,000 miles on it. Can I jumper the pump to get it to run longer than turning the key on?
Steve Wagner
Nato member
84 SVO
88TC, 5 speed, StageII Star clutch w/ StageIII pressure plate,lightened flywheel, K&N in fender, gillis valve, 255lph Walbro, Kirban adj.FPR,Bypass valve, 3" exhaust (high flow cat/ Magnaflow muffler), A-pillar gauges(A/F & Boost), 16" ARE 5 spoke wheels 7" front 8" rear(225/50VR16 / 245/50VR16 Yokos'). Subframe connectors
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
20K milers on a pump is not much. I'd be more suspicious of a blockage or the hose in the tank coming off again? A longer prime isn't going to solve the problem in the long run. Try cycling the key to run for a couple seconds, then OFF, then back to RUN quickly for a couple seconds. Do this 3-4 times quick. See if you have any pressure?
Pete Dunham


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Wags88TC Offline
Senior Member
#8
A light went off when I was looking at the tech articles on fuel systems! Thanks Pete and Jeff. I've got pressure now(jumped the eec pin) - ran the pump with 3, 5 sec bursts, the pressure went to 40 psi. Leak down about 5 sec to 35psi, about 3 min to 30 psi. So pump's good so far, fpr's good as well.
Gave it a try, it almost tried to start, but sounds like ignition timing is off a bit. The smell in the garage is a little funky from cranking the engine, still bad gas maybe. I get nervous using either, but gonna give it a try tomorrow, and rotate the dist. a bit. If that doesn't work, I guess it'll be time to take the fuel rail off and check the injectors.
Steve Wagner
Nato member
84 SVO
88TC, 5 speed, StageII Star clutch w/ StageIII pressure plate,lightened flywheel, K&N in fender, gillis valve, 255lph Walbro, Kirban adj.FPR,Bypass valve, 3" exhaust (high flow cat/ Magnaflow muffler), A-pillar gauges(A/F & Boost), 16" ARE 5 spoke wheels 7" front 8" rear(225/50VR16 / 245/50VR16 Yokos'). Subframe connectors
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
Steve, the lining up of the marks and the rotor for timing is just to get into the ball park enough to get it started - hopefully. In reality, most of the time I do it, the car is retarded by several degrees. Stick a timing light on it and see where you are at while cranking, then move the dist accordingly.
Pete Dunham


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T-BirdX3 Offline
Senior Member
#10
Wish people would stop going MIA in threads that they start.... Sad
'88 T-Coupe 5 speed/'88 T-Coupe Auto
'87 T-Coupe 5 speed/'87 T-coupe 5 speed(76k orig mile)
..... and there was light!
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee36...tled-2.jpg
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