North American Turbocoupe Organization



Window Glue Fail (100% Silicone)
94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#1
I had mentioned in another post that I had repaired my passenger side window by using 100% silicone caulk. It seemed to make sense, that is what the shower doors and walls are secured to the tile with, why would it not work on the window, besides it looked like Ford used silicone (or something very much like that).  It would stay flexible and would provide some cushioning for the glass, right? 

Well the word "repair" was a lot optimistic. I applied 100% silicone, let it sit for about 48 hours and when I hit the window down button the clips immediately came off the window glass. 

So, back to square 1 on the window repair.  I intend on using urethane glue from my local autozone, if someone has a better option I would love to hear it. 

Thanks
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John B Offline
Member
#2
I actually just purchased 3M channel bonding and sidelite adhesive: item # 08641. This stuff is two component epoxy adhesive that is meant for this application. Prep of the window and window channel are also very important beforehand. I've been running into the same issue where I've had to fix the windows almost every year. I read on here that greasing the sliding tracks is highly recommended but I'm not sure where to grease.

Anyone that could supply pictures would be of great help.
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#3
Thanks for that info, did you make the purchase online or at a particular store?
As far as greasing the tracks, I think the idea is to use a lightweight lubricant. You should apply it inside the grooves in the window felt on the left and right sides of the window opening so that the glass slides easily up and down. I will use Silicone Spray, I think WD40 would work, but am not sure if it is compatible with the rubber/felt.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
A quick web search would have revealed that silicone caulk (silicone RTV) does not work in this application.

Use silicone spray for the window channels, NOT WD40!
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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John B Offline
Member
#5
I bought the epoxy and matching applicator on amazon. I have never seen it in any stores local to me here in NJ.
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#6
(07-31-2019, 06:32 PM)John B Wrote: I bought the epoxy and matching applicator on amazon. I have never seen it in any stores local to me here in NJ.

Again, I mentioned in my post that I used Automotive GOOP and Gorilla Glue’s Clear Grip. The driver’s side was GOOPed about 15 years ago; the passenger also, last October, but it failed in June...hence, the Clear Grip. John, that epoxy stuff sounds interesting.

94VERTiGO, I thought you meant silicone ADHESIVE, not just caulking. Yeah, that won’t work. It’s a sealant not a glue or epoxy.

Ford’s Body Shop Manual advises that you use, essentially, multi-purpose grease to lube the tracks. I can tell you it is a challenge to get the grease on the inner tracks and not everywhere else! I used Castro Syntec Synthetic Grease.

Silicone spray is great for the felt channel along the edges the glass rides on.

There are so many better choices than WD-40. I prefer B’laster Multi-MAXX. For one thing, it doesn’t stink for days, and it’s synthetic. That would be good to spray on the door lock and door handle mechanisms, since you’re in there anyway (NOT the actual lock cylinder! Use powdered graphite).
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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John B Offline
Member
#7
Anasazi4st, what do you mean by felt channel? Is that the lower Horizontal slit where the window would come up thru?

When looking at videos online, everyone suggests using silicone spray for the vertical door tracks. Are these the same tracks the Ford Manual is referring to? Thank you for the help
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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fred k Offline
Senior Member
#8
(07-31-2019, 12:14 PM)94VERTiGO Wrote: I had mentioned in another post that I had repaired my passenger side window by using 100% silicone caulk. It seemed to make sense, that is what the shower doors and walls are secured to the tile with, why would it not work on the window, besides it looked like Ford used silicone (or something very much like that).  It would stay flexible and would provide some cushioning for the glass, right? 

Well the word "repair" was a lot optimistic. I applied 100% silicone, let it sit for about 48 hours and when I hit the window down button the clips immediately came off the window glass. 

So, back to square 1 on the window repair.  I intend on using urethane glue from my local autozone, if someone has a better option I would love to hear it. 

Thanks

Sure most of us here have had the same problem at some time or the other.  Years ago I went to the local windshield repair business and they fixed me up with a tube of their black sealant/glue.  The price (don't remember what it was) was reasonable and never had a problem since.

Fred
fred l kennedy
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#9
(08-01-2019, 02:48 PM)John B Wrote: Anasazi4st, what do you mean by felt channel? Is that the lower Horizontal slit where the window would come up thru?

When looking at videos online, everyone suggests using silicone spray for the vertical door tracks. Are these the same tracks the Ford Manual is referring to? Thank you for the help

What I call the felt channels or guides are on the vertical inner front and rear edges of the door glass, these are what I would spray (lightly) with silicone spray.

Here are photos from Ford’s 1987 Body (Part II of II Volume B) Shop Manual (keep your fingers crossed that they actually reproduce here):

[Image: 2019-08-01%2023.53.23.jpg?dl=0]

These are the instructions on what and where to lubricate, and the lubricant to use (I prefer synthetic grease myself).

[Image: 2019-08-01%2023.53.45.jpg?dl=0]

(Sorry for the yellowing of the exposure). You’ll note that there are no “shaded areas” evident in the drawing above; common sense and observation (with a bright flashlight and an inspection mirror) will inform you where to actually put the grease.

It’s a fantasy that you’re going to be able to accurately spread the grease “evenly”, given there is very little room to work inside the door. Unless you are Plastic Man and can stretch and bend your hands and fingers, the best you’ll likely do is get a clump of grease on a surface that makes contact with another, and run the window up and down to spread it.

Again, the real challenge is not to also grease the window, door frame, your clothes, etc. Grease is one of those substances like mud and paint that starts out in one place and is soon most everywhere, and not always where you want or intend it to be.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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John B Offline
Member
#10
This is perfect; thank you for the explanation and pictures! This is good documentation for anyone else in the future. I know this has been talked about before but I don't believe photos have ever been posted. Thank you again
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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