North American Turbocoupe Organization



Wide band issue?
Adrock Offline
Junior Member
#1
So I just bought an 87 turbo coupe cherry great condition in molested. So I went to put in a wide band AFR today and I just put it in the location of the factory O2 sensor..I hooked it up to the plug right there. Power to grey and yellow wire, ground to blk grn and sensor to ppl grn.. then all of a sudden I get in the car and it's running horrible it gets it right when it hits boost it starts like bucking and missing and interesting enough the gauge says that the fuel mixture is right on and I wouldn't think that the O2 sensor has enough authority to cause the engine to run that poorly... Is this just a coincidence that something else is happening at this moment? Did I possibly bump something in that area? With the fuel being good and it's happening right when it gets up in the boost it makes me think ignition hey check the plugs they're all gapped right at 30 so I don't think they're blowing out I checked the timing its set at base timing at 10°...I am not familiar with the component that is in the place of the mass air sensor..could this be causing my issues? Oh I am also recently bumped up the boost to 18-19 psi....it was running great for a few days.....thank you in advance
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88Slowbird Offline
Member
#2
(02-08-2022, 12:15 PM)Adrock Wrote: So I just bought an 87 turbo coupe cherry great condition in molested. So I went to put in a wide band AFR today and I just put it in the location of the factory O2 sensor..I hooked it up to the plug right there. Power to grey and yellow wire, ground to blk grn and sensor to ppl grn.. then all of a sudden I get in the car and it's running horrible it gets it right when it hits boost it starts like bucking and missing and interesting enough the gauge says that the fuel mixture is right on and I wouldn't think that the O2 sensor has enough authority to cause the engine to run that poorly... Is this just a coincidence that something else is happening at this moment? Did I possibly bump something in that area? With the fuel being good and it's happening right when it gets up in the boost it makes me think ignition hey check the plugs they're all gapped right at 30 so I don't think they're blowing out I checked the timing its set at base timing at 10°...I am not familiar with the component that is in the place of the mass air sensor..could this be causing my issues? Oh I am also recently bumped up the boost to 18-19 psi....it was running great for a few days.....thank you in advance

you have to keep the factory O2 installed it needs that to run on the stock ECU

you'll need the put the wideband somewhere else on the exhaust
Black 1988 TC: RR Cam (with Esslinger cam gear), Stinger FMIC, Stinger 3" Exhaust, .60/.63 SVO Turbo, Pimp V1.4, Spartan2 Wideband, Forge DP BOV
Mach 1 Red 1988 TC: All stock
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BradM Offline
Member
#3
OEM O2 sensor is narrowband. You cannot replace it with a WB and use the OEM ECU.
1965 Mercury Comet Caliente; 1968 Mercury Monterey; 1969 F100 Ranger; 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
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Adrock Offline
Junior Member
#4
(02-08-2022, 06:29 PM)BradM Wrote: OEM O2 sensor is narrowband. You cannot replace it with a WB and use the OEM ECU.

I understand that but most wide bands have a setting or a wire that is uses the zero to one volt reference just for the narrow band signal that the ECU is looking for in my AEM wideband part number 30-4110 if you turn the setting to p04 then the white wire that normally sends the 0 to 5 volt reference for the wideband in this case sends a 0 to 1 volt reference to the ECU which is the narrow band signal. Regardless even if it were that that's incorrect would the O2 sensor alone be enough to cause the vehicle to run like this? I wouldn't think so
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Adrock Offline
Junior Member
#5
Another thing I just noticed is that when the car does start cutting out another thing that happens in unison with the cutting out is the tachometer spikes like the needle flies up into the red zone which obviously isn't what's happening but it tells me that the problem is most likely with the ignition system?
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teal95 Offline
Senior Member
#6
Remove the WB and put the NB sensor back in. Then troubleshoot. One change at a time.

steve
'83 & '84 GT turbo EEC-Tuner
'85.5 & '86 SVO twEECer
2x '87 & '88 TC QuarterHorse
'93 LX 5.0 notch Moates chips
3x '95 & '96 GT
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#7
agreed, you have to put the narrowband back in the stock location to run correctly with a factory ECU. If you want to use the wideband install a bung in the downpipe about 24" from the turbo.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Adrock Offline
Junior Member
#8
(02-09-2022, 01:50 PM)Kuch Wrote: agreed, you have to put the narrowband back in the stock location to run correctly with a factory ECU. If you want to use the wideband install a bung in the downpipe about 24" from the turbo.

Ok, as suggested, I have put the factory narrow band O2 sensor back in its location in the wideband is just put off for a later date at this point. The car is still running poorly. It's just so strange how this coincidentally happened at the same time. So it's acting like it just doesn't want to accelerate and it just flat out won't go over 4,000 RPM if I back the throttle off and kind of feather it I can feel it like start pulling every once in awhile like it's supposed to my fuel pressure is good it just sure seems like an ignition issue I just replaced all wires and cap and rotor and plugs the only thing I didn't replace was the coil any ideas where to go first or from here
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Adrock Offline
Junior Member
#9
It I will make the first guess. I actually drops to zero it doesn't hold it which makes me think the little s hoes or whatever that's called the little is right off the pump in the tank is split there check that tomorrow? Is that sound reasonable?
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#10
Was it running fine before the wideband install? If so, disconnect your battery and let it sit for like 15 minutes to reset the ECU. Hook back up and let it run at idle till it warms up, if running better, go for a ride and let it re-learn the system. You could have a bad hose on the fuel pump, but try the battery first.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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