North American Turbocoupe Organization



Why friends don't let friends work on their car..
xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#1
So I had a buddy out recently. He wanted to help with the car so he did some little things in the interior while I was under the hood. My passenger window came off the track, that side power lock doesn't work and the rearview mirror fell off the windshield some time ago.

He didn't want to pull the panel off the door, as he didn't want to damage anything so he went about replacing the rearview mirror. Everything got all cleaned nicely and then I hear "oh sh*t!" and a bunch of movement inside the car. He glued the mirror holder upside down and backwards to the windshield. By the time he figured this out the glue was set.

I have no clue how this is going to be fixed. I'm thinking that I'll have to glue the one from my parts car on top of this one. I'm kind of glad now that I grabbed that mirror as the car was off to the recycler! It was a last minute, I'll grab this but I don't know why type thing.
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : [email protected] / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage [email protected] 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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1988turbotbird Offline
Senior Member
#2
take a heat gun to the outside of the window where the rear view mirror base is at and heat up the glass. The heat should loosen up the adheasive. Just have something under it to catch it when it falls off haha
88 TC/HX35/CAI/3" exhaust/Wilson MS2/Beanman header/Head Work/Laramee Cam/Gillis boost controller/3G alt/Walboro 255 fuel pump/BOV/CHE rear control arms/1" lowered/poly. bushings/Chuck W mounts/6 puck clutch/Pro 5.0 shifter/AEM wideband/Tuning MS..
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#3
...be sure not to warm the glass up when cold.
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
I just watched a professional window installer use the same trick 1988turbotbird described when they replaced a windshield on my son's car. The process was quick.
Pete Dunham


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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#5
I guess that explains why the mirror fell off in 3 days after re-gluing it in my Mustang. FL sunshine for the win!
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Cerebral Offline
Senior Member
#6
When i put that metal thingy back on my car, the first time the mirror just fell off 2 days later. The second time, i let the metal thing sit up there by itself for 2 days and then put the mirror on. I dont think it will come off now without a big chunk of windshield attached to it.
1987 Automatic TC- parts car

1987 5 Speed TC, K&N on Vam,Boost controller, T3, Bob's Log, Stinger 3 inch exhaust with Magnaflow, FMIC, Forge Dual Piston B.O.V., Ranger Roller, Esslinger Adjustable Pulley, Boport Drop in Valve Springs, Pyro Pete Clutch
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#7
Quote:Originally posted by Cerebral:
I dont think it will come off now without a big chunk of windshield attached to it.
that's exactly what happened to me when i went to get a box outta my car and i accidentally hit the mirror with my shoulder. i saw the mirror on the floor and saw the metal piece and then the glass.... its only the inside layer of glass but sucks now, i ended up just placing the tab an inch over to the right..... stupid windshield
Brian J Larkin
88TC 320k miles
T3, FMIC ,3in stinger exhaust, gillis,
255 walbro, afpr, 5spd swap,spec clutch, sn95 5 lug,.
89 Cougar XR7 3.8SC Auto
95 Ranger Splash 3.0 auto
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Nsw Offline
Senior Member
#8
I used to do auto glass for a living. To do it properly use a propane torch with a set of channel locks or vice grips on the mirror tab, heat the glass (outside) and work the tab it will start to come loose, the key is to slowly heat the glass in intervals a few seconds each time and work the tab in between. make sure it is not cold when you start or it will crack and do not force the tab off.( give it heat a few times before try to work the tab or it will crack)

Scuff the back of the tab with a steel wool, clean the glass surface with an ammonia free cleaner. you need to clean the old glue residue from the glass before applying new adheasive, a singe edge razor blade works great, work with the curve of the glass and it will not scratch.

I have done this many time and never cracked a windshield. common sense and evenly heating the glass is the way to go........ i take no responsibility if you do crack your shield though :p
1988 5speed black every option. 3inch single turbo to tail(stinger), manual boost control. k&n cone walbro fuel pump

1986 xr4ti project car..... way to many mods to list.
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Cerebral Offline
Senior Member
#9
Quote:Originally posted by BJL:
Quote:Originally posted by Cerebral:
[b] I dont think it will come off now without a big chunk of windshield attached to it.
that's exactly what happened to me when i went to get a box outta my car and i accidentally hit the mirror with my shoulder. i saw the mirror on the floor and saw the metal piece and then the glass.... its only the inside layer of glass but sucks now, i ended up just placing the tab an inch over to the right..... stupid windshield [/b]
HAHAHAHA.
1987 Automatic TC- parts car

1987 5 Speed TC, K&N on Vam,Boost controller, T3, Bob's Log, Stinger 3 inch exhaust with Magnaflow, FMIC, Forge Dual Piston B.O.V., Ranger Roller, Esslinger Adjustable Pulley, Boport Drop in Valve Springs, Pyro Pete Clutch
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