North American Turbocoupe Organization



What Oil are YOU'ALL using?
Thor Power Offline
Senior Member
#1
The tapping noise was a bad #2 valve stem. Anyways, I was advised to put Lucas oil additive and then change my oil to 15W-40. My friend works on high performance cars and "loves" the TBirds! He has a Merkur. I was advised since I live in TX and in the account that the 2.3 motor is up there in age, it's best to change the oil weight. I wonder what are other TBird owns running in their cars? Plus, does anyone think I should try the 15W-40?
88 Sports "Thor" disassembled
88 Grey 5spd Turbocoupe "Hooptie" ('09 Calendar) Parted out & crushed.(Tbird Heaven)
88 Black 5spd Turbocoupe Parted out & crushed. (Tbird Heaven)
88 Red 5spd Turbocoupe (newest member)
02 Lincoln Continental (road warrior)
06 Mercury Grand Marguis (custom duals like the Marauder)
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
I've used heavier oil when oil pressure was a problem but for a properly performing street engine, I'd go with 10W-30 full Synth.
I use Mobile 1 but I'm not trying to start a banding war. Everybody has their favorite. 6 bottle cases go on sale once or twice a year at Costco.
Pete Dunham


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BirdJunkie Offline
Senior Member
#3
We have run Castrol GTX 10w30 since our bird came home. It gets changed every 3000 miles, sometimes before, and never have had a problem. I will change it over to Mobil 1 whenever the motor gets rebuilt, but it has 120,000 miles and it runs just like it did when it came off the showroom floor on 3/18/88.

88 TC 5SPD BLACK MY BABY ORIG.OWNER(garage queen)/06 GTO 6SPD RED WIFES CAR(cop magnet...lol)/2011 TAHOE WHITE (wifes daily driver a.k.a Fifty Cent)/2016 SUPER DUTY RED(my daily driver a.k.a BIG red)/06 HAYABUSA (SEXY BITCH)..STATEFARM LUVS ME. ----N.A.T.O Bad Boy Division President----
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TurboCoupe50 Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Assuming temps aren't usually below 55-60*, the 15W-40 won't do any harm... In a cold climate oil would be slow to reach top end so can contribute to excessive valve train wear... Since 15W-40 is rated for HD diesel usage so has a higher amount of zinc than today's std oils, if you have a slider cam it's a good thing...

A better choice, slider or roller would be Mobil 1 0W-40, flows better in colder weather and is still a 40 weight when hot, plus has additional zinc...

As a FYi M1 0W-40 meets Euro diesel specs which often call for 12-15K mi oil changes, got to be good stuff...
1988 Turbo Coupe331 AOD

1972 Comet GT

1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed
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FastN'Fried Offline
Senior Member
#5
Motorcraft when I can get it, otherwise 10w30 oreileys conventional. Most 'cost effective' dealerships (all), use the cheap stuff anyways in my experience as a line tech. I fed Mazdaspeed3's 10w30 oreileys my entire time at mazda.
1988 Canyon Red Turbo Coupe
Carrillo pistons +.030, ARP hardware, 3in exhaust, and a magnaflow
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Thor Power Offline
Senior Member
#6
I have another 2.3 block I'm putting together. I will use full synthetic on that block. Heard stories if I switch now to full synthetic oil on my 119,XXX mile TBird, It'll start to uncover oil leaks. Has anyone just switched and changed to full synthetic with no issues?
88 Sports "Thor" disassembled
88 Grey 5spd Turbocoupe "Hooptie" ('09 Calendar) Parted out & crushed.(Tbird Heaven)
88 Black 5spd Turbocoupe Parted out & crushed. (Tbird Heaven)
88 Red 5spd Turbocoupe (newest member)
02 Lincoln Continental (road warrior)
06 Mercury Grand Marguis (custom duals like the Marauder)
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FastN'Fried Offline
Senior Member
#7
I have switch from conventional to full synthetic in my 00' Zx2 with a 2.0 zetec. Apples to oranges I know.

With fresh seals, etc. if for any reason it doesn't seal up it's probably not a big deal to go to convential afterwards if need be. Conventional and synthetic from what I understand are not compatable, so you will end up with metal on metal if not completely drained. A seasoned engine isn't going to loose every drop of oil off each component. I've heard of running a blend for awhile before switching over. Nothing wrong with some good old dino oil Smile

Edit: I read up some more since I too was curious. yadayadayada molecular structure. Should be a better oil to use with a turbo charger because of it's heat tolerence properties.

They say use it -
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthrea...n-my-turbo

This was posted in 2008, as of 2013, the dealershit I was working with at the time still swore by conventional in the speed cars
1988 Canyon Red Turbo Coupe
Carrillo pistons +.030, ARP hardware, 3in exhaust, and a magnaflow
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TurboCoupe50 Offline
Posting Freak
#8
ALL common motor oils are compatible, it's Fed law(maybe not optimum, but compatible)... You think they want to be worrying about what oil goes in something that's going to the battle front???

The synthetic leak in older engine has a slight amount of merit but if it starts leaking or worsens was soon going to happen with dino anyway...
1988 Turbo Coupe331 AOD

1972 Comet GT

1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
If synth and conventional were incompatible, then how do we get blend. I been running Fords blend for years in my newer cars
Pete Dunham


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Joe F Offline
Posting Freak
#10
Everything you ever wanted to know about oil - HERE.

Top 7 Urban Legends About Motor Oil.

Now, FWIW, I've been using Red Line synthetic 10W/30 in my TC for 13 years. No worries here. I change the oil and filter every 5000 miles.

Bottom line, keep it lubed and clean, and it's all good!



JR's Place - My '87 Turbocoupe
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