Forcedbird
Joined:
Sep 2002
Seneca Falls, N.Y., United States
|
|
I think that I have a bad ECT but I want to test it before I replace it. I have a voltmeter but I don't know what numbers I am looking for. Should I test it with the engine warm? cold? both?
Also if it is bad should I only get a Ford Motorcraft ECT? Or a NAPA or Advance ECT will be OK?
Thanks,
-Kashain
88 TC
HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!
Proud to be a NATO member!
|
Matt S
Joined:
Apr 2001
Mountlake Terrace, WA
|
|
I did a few searches with "test ect volt" and all I got was TPS tests with no ECT key words in the search. Doesn't surprise me tho.. !
I have the NAPA one, and I just replace them every couple years. Napa one is $17.69 (just checked).
Hey, PM me you and Amy's email addy...
Sold it *
|
Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
|
|
Check your email. I'm partial to the Ford one.
Pete Dunham
|
Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
|
|
Kashain, what I do is pull the ECT, hook a DMM on ohms to it, and put it in a pan of water on the stove along with an accurate thermometer. I slowly heat the water and see if the resistance vs temp relationship is correct. I know the R vs T info is floating around on this site and over at TF, but if you cant find it, E mail me and I'll send you an Excel spreadsheet with the R vs T data.
As Pete said, if yours is bad, get the Ford part for this critical sensor.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
|
Forcedbird
Joined:
Sep 2002
Seneca Falls, N.Y., United States
|
|
Thanks guys When I get it tested I'll let you know what happens
88 TC
HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!
Proud to be a NATO member!
|
Forcedbird
Joined:
Sep 2002
Seneca Falls, N.Y., United States
|
|
I haven't checked the ECT yet but I took the bird for a drive to try out the BOV hooked up as a BPV. I stopped at a parking area and popped the hood. To my suprise the exhaust manifold and exhaust housing on the turbo was glowing a dull red (It was dusk out). I did a search on glowing manifold and I found that it could be:
running rich
lean
FPR
Timing too advanced
Spout not in
corrosion in spout connection
I didn't drive it hard at all so I think that I have a problem. Never heard pinging even when Holset bossted to 25psi. (Wastegate not hooked up by accident).
I know I need to test my ECT but could a bad ECT cause the engine to run to rich that it would cause the exhaust manifold to glow?
I think that when I fix this problem I should be going even faster!
Thanks,
-Kashain
88 TC
HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!
Proud to be a NATO member!
|
Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
|
|
The ECT affects A/F ratio and timing. I don't know if it would cause what you are experiencing by itself. Some dull glow is normal in low light. It's more a matter of degree. Bright orange glow is defintely a problem. Add a clogged cat to the list also. Test it first.
Tou can check the timing with a light and verify the integraty of the spout plug. Timing should advance around 20* when you plug it in.
Pull the codes and run the fuel system diagnostics to check lean/ rich conditions
Pete Dunham
|
|