North American Turbocoupe Organization



What is the procedure for testing the ECT
Forcedbird Offline
Member
#1
I think that I have a bad ECT but I want to test it before I replace it. I have a voltmeter but I don't know what numbers I am looking for. Should I test it with the engine warm? cold? both?

Also if it is bad should I only get a Ford Motorcraft ECT? Or a NAPA or Advance ECT will be OK?

Thanks,
-Kashain
88 TC

HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!

Proud to be a NATO member!
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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#2
I did a few searches with "test ect volt" and all I got was TPS tests with no ECT key words in the search. Doesn't surprise me tho.. !

I have the NAPA one, and I just replace them every couple years. Napa one is $17.69 (just checked).

Hey, PM me you and Amy's email addy...
Sold it Sad*
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Check your email. I'm partial to the Ford one.
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Kashain, what I do is pull the ECT, hook a DMM on ohms to it, and put it in a pan of water on the stove along with an accurate thermometer. I slowly heat the water and see if the resistance vs temp relationship is correct. I know the R vs T info is floating around on this site and over at TF, but if you cant find it, E mail me and I'll send you an Excel spreadsheet with the R vs T data.

As Pete said, if yours is bad, get the Ford part for this critical sensor.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Forcedbird Offline
Member
#5
Thanks guys When I get it tested I'll let you know what happens
88 TC

HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!

Proud to be a NATO member!
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Forcedbird Offline
Member
#6
I haven't checked the ECT yet but I took the bird for a drive to try out the BOV hooked up as a BPV. I stopped at a parking area and popped the hood. To my suprise the exhaust manifold and exhaust housing on the turbo was glowing a dull red (It was dusk out). I did a search on glowing manifold and I found that it could be:

running rich
lean
FPR
Timing too advanced
Spout not in
corrosion in spout connection

I didn't drive it hard at all so I think that I have a problem. Never heard pinging even when Holset bossted to 25psi. (Wastegate not hooked up by accident).

I know I need to test my ECT but could a bad ECT cause the engine to run to rich that it would cause the exhaust manifold to glow?

I think that when I fix this problem I should be going even faster!

Thanks,
-Kashain
88 TC

HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!

Proud to be a NATO member!
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
The ECT affects A/F ratio and timing. I don't know if it would cause what you are experiencing by itself. Some dull glow is normal in low light. It's more a matter of degree. Bright orange glow is defintely a problem. Add a clogged cat to the list also. Test it first.

Tou can check the timing with a light and verify the integraty of the spout plug. Timing should advance around 20* when you plug it in.

Pull the codes and run the fuel system diagnostics to check lean/ rich conditions
Pete Dunham


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