North American Turbocoupe Organization



What is the procedure for testing the ECT
Forcedbird Offline
Member
#1
I think that I have a bad ECT but I want to test it before I replace it. I have a voltmeter but I don't know what numbers I am looking for. Should I test it with the engine warm? cold? both?

Also if it is bad should I only get a Ford Motorcraft ECT? Or a NAPA or Advance ECT will be OK?

Thanks,
-Kashain
88 TC

HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!

Proud to be a NATO member!
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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#2
I did a few searches with "test ect volt" and all I got was TPS tests with no ECT key words in the search. Doesn't surprise me tho.. !

I have the NAPA one, and I just replace them every couple years. Napa one is $17.69 (just checked).

Hey, PM me you and Amy's email addy...
Sold it Sad*
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Check your email. I'm partial to the Ford one.
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Kashain, what I do is pull the ECT, hook a DMM on ohms to it, and put it in a pan of water on the stove along with an accurate thermometer. I slowly heat the water and see if the resistance vs temp relationship is correct. I know the R vs T info is floating around on this site and over at TF, but if you cant find it, E mail me and I'll send you an Excel spreadsheet with the R vs T data.

As Pete said, if yours is bad, get the Ford part for this critical sensor.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Forcedbird Offline
Member
#5
Thanks guys When I get it tested I'll let you know what happens
88 TC

HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!

Proud to be a NATO member!
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Forcedbird Offline
Member
#6
I haven't checked the ECT yet but I took the bird for a drive to try out the BOV hooked up as a BPV. I stopped at a parking area and popped the hood. To my suprise the exhaust manifold and exhaust housing on the turbo was glowing a dull red (It was dusk out). I did a search on glowing manifold and I found that it could be:

running rich
lean
FPR
Timing too advanced
Spout not in
corrosion in spout connection

I didn't drive it hard at all so I think that I have a problem. Never heard pinging even when Holset bossted to 25psi. (Wastegate not hooked up by accident).

I know I need to test my ECT but could a bad ECT cause the engine to run to rich that it would cause the exhaust manifold to glow?

I think that when I fix this problem I should be going even faster!

Thanks,
-Kashain
88 TC

HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!

Proud to be a NATO member!
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
The ECT affects A/F ratio and timing. I don't know if it would cause what you are experiencing by itself. Some dull glow is normal in low light. It's more a matter of degree. Bright orange glow is defintely a problem. Add a clogged cat to the list also. Test it first.

Tou can check the timing with a light and verify the integraty of the spout plug. Timing should advance around 20* when you plug it in.

Pull the codes and run the fuel system diagnostics to check lean/ rich conditions
Pete Dunham


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