North American Turbocoupe Organization



What fluid goes in here? + other Q's
Ramos617 Offline
Member
#1
I need to know what type of fluid goes in this tiny opaque reservoir that is located on the fire wall on the drivers side.
Its ran dry on me from what ive seen and the cap on it is basically illegible (shoot if anybody has one I'll buy it) so i dont know what exactly its supposed to filled with.
Ive been searching for an answer but i cant seem to find it.

Also how exactly do you guys mount up your vam once you installed a K&N filter?
I got one identical to the X-stream version that Stinger has
Its currently just sitting attached to the vam where the stock box was but with the vam mounting clamp detached.

Ok so far for performance my TC has a ported and gutted upper intake, ported lower intake, Gillis boost valve, K&N air filter, AFPR, and 3" stinger exhaust
Since putting on the exhaust, K&N, and raising the boost a bit ive noticed that on full throttle the engine surges a bit
its not real bad but i would like it gone
Could it be that i need to upgrade the fuel pump?
The previous owner did include a replacement autozone fuel pump that he purchased for the car a year before he sold it to me so it makes me wonder.
But if i was to drop the tank then i would probably just go for a Walbro 255.
What do you guys think?
1987 T-Bird
Too much stuff to list
Running better than ever
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Pete D Offline
Posting Freak
#2
The little round reservoir, kind of white colored is for the hydraulic clutch. If it went dry, you probably have a leak in the line or the master or slave cylinders. That system uses brake fluid. You will need to bleed the system, like brakes. There is a bleed valve on top of the slave cylinder on the bellhousing. See my comment in this post on checking the slave cyl for leaks; http://natomessageboard.com/ubbthreads.p...Post178507

VAM mount is kind of a use what you got thing. I hacked up the original mount and used that but this is an area for a little creativity.

You probably do need a pump. You could run the fuel system diagnostics and that will tell you for sure; http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/Fuel_Syst...ostics.htm
If you need a pump, Walbro is the way to go. Forget the autozoo pump
Pete Dunham
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Ramos617 Offline
Member
#3
Thank you, this info is very helpful
One more question, my engine is "blowing oil" out of the dipstick
I seen a thread on stinger about how to fix the PVC system so it doesn't blow oil
http://stinger-performance.proboards.com...thread=732
Is this the only fix, if so would it pass the smog and visual check since I have a smog check coming very soon
1987 T-Bird
Too much stuff to list
Running better than ever
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Pete D Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Stinger's method will fix it, several people have adapted that idea to their cars. I don't feel that it is the only way to go, especially for cars that are stock or mildly modded. Chances are, in your case, either the stock PCV has become defective or somebody put a non-Motorcraft, non turbo PCV on it. On fix would be to get a new Motorcraft PCV (down behind the distributor) and install it. The PN is Ford P/N: E5ZZ-6A666-A (this is the correct p/n, 5/13/02) The Motorcraft box will also have EV-127-A on it.
One caveat, test it before you leave the store. hold it straight up and down and blow down through the small end. If it passes ANY air at all it is defective, get a different one. Use only the Motorcraft part as many aftermarket PCVs are not made to keep boost out of the crankcase - they won;t pass the blow test mentioned above.

The PCV will only cost you a few bucks and will pass smog functionally and visually. You have the option of installing a Stinger type system any time.
Pete Dunham
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boosted chicken Offline
Senior Member
#5
If you have trouble finding the correct PCV valve, you can also do what I did several years ago.
I adapted a brake booster check valve in the line going down to the PCV valve. I think it was for a Mercury Villager, but most of those check valves function the same. They will only allow vacuum, so positive pressure cannot flow the opposite direction. In other words, your PCV valve would never see positive manifold pressure, only vacuum.
88 TC#1 2.9L tall deck. Essy SVO head, Boport header, BW SX369 turbo, C4 trans, MS2xtra
88 TC#2 drag car project(someday)
88 TC#3 parts car (just needed the header panel...bought the whole car, lol)
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Joe F Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Another alternative, a DIY "bulletproof" PCV valve for about $5 or so.

HTH
JR's Place - My '87 Turbocoupe
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Ramos617 Offline
Member
#7
I already ordered a new motorcraft pcv valve but if it ever fails again I will definitely do that bulletproof pcv valve, especially since I can get those parts at work 20% off

I also finally got around to replacing my AZ spark plug wires with some motorcraft wires and wow did this engine need them
After installation I took her out for a spin
Slightly better/smoother acceleration and doesn't cut out or surge upon full throttle any more
Very happy with the outcome
So the fuel pump in there is still good but I still am going to replace it with a walbro when funds allow

Also last time I checked my mileage I was getting about 18mpg driving at about 85% city and I'm sure the new wires will bump it up some since the old ones were pretty bad
1987 T-Bird
Too much stuff to list
Running better than ever
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gadgetolds Offline
Posting Freak
#8
I did the bullet proof pcv valve a few years ago, havent bought one since!
1988 Turbo Coupe - A237 cam, K&N Cone, T3(.60-.63), 255 Walbro, Gillis BV, gutted and knifed intakes, ported e6, 3" elbow/dp to dual 2.5s, Kirban and spearco fmic.

Up next, ported head, t3/t4 upgrade.
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