boboli
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Joined:
Nov 2011
Tucson AZ
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My passenger side window just started to act strange. When the glass reaches the top of the window channel (or bottom) and the window stops in the track, the motor continues to try to push the glass . It makes a popping sound and you can visibly see the glass flex. The window's range of motion has also developed some rough spots that cause the motor to stop pushing the glass up. If this happens, I usually let off the switch and then try the switch again, and the window works.
I'm hoping its just the motor wearing out. It's been getting slower. I tried lubing the window channels in the door itself, and that didn't really help with the binding glass.
Does this sound like its time to replace the motor?
I hope its not the regulator, I hate dealing with those.
1988 turbo tbird, 5spd, 140k, all stock except boost control valve.
1986 dodge omni glh turbo, 111k, my money pit.
1989 mustang Lx 5.0 convertible, tropical yellow/ tan interior, 1of only 144 made, 164k, aod, all stock including overheating TFI!
89 Jaguar XJS convertible, LT1 conversion, now fighting the prince of darkness (aka Lucas electronics)
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It sounds like "transmission" part of the motor is on its way out. There's a plastic gear with three plastic torque buttons in there. Usually, the buttons end up disintegrating. Usually, there will be a lumping/thumping sound at the end of window travel when this happens.
If you're inclined to repair it yourself, Advance/AutoZone may have them in their Help! section. From the Advance website, part number 74410.
1988 Turbo Coupe
- 0.020 Diamonds w/stock rods, T3 w/stock IC, BoPort 1.5 cam, LA3 w/QH on MAF, water/meth
- 5-lug swap, 31-spline, 4.10s, vacuum brakes, PBR front brakes, 2000 Mustang GT 17" rims
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Scott Mabe
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Joined:
Nov 2013
Virginia
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It's been a while but I've replaced the plastic pieces with, I believe, 7/16 nuts and never had another problem. You might have to double check the size after it is apart because it has been quite a while since I've had to do it.
1987 Turbo Coupe
1988 Thunderbird parts car/ possibly street/strip car
1990 F-250HD 460ci
2001 Pontiac Montana (wife's ride)
-PLEASE FORGIVE TYPOS, I USE SWYPE ON MY PHONE-
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jmthunderbirdturbo
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Joined:
Feb 2005
Ostrander, Ohio
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Scott Mabe Wrote:It's been a while but I've replaced the plastic pieces with, I believe, 7/16 nuts and never had another problem. You might have to double check the size after it is apart because it has been quite a while since I've had to do it.
^this. you can do this with almost every ford from about 85 to 2000.
-J0N
APRIL 2018 - LOOKING FOR A NEW CAR. PM me if you have an 87-88 roller or cheap TF for sale.
1988 TC 5MT-Blue/Blue check-off car. resto-project.
2006 Honda Odyssey 5AT, baby-mobile.
2013 F-150, 5.0, 6AT, 4x4, snow white paint.
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boboli
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Joined:
Nov 2011
Tucson AZ
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Thanks guys. I will try and remove the motor tomorrow. For some reason I thought the Tbird motors were different than the others and the repair was not as easy. I may do the wooden dowel method instead of bolts
1988 turbo tbird, 5spd, 140k, all stock except boost control valve.
1986 dodge omni glh turbo, 111k, my money pit.
1989 mustang Lx 5.0 convertible, tropical yellow/ tan interior, 1of only 144 made, 164k, aod, all stock including overheating TFI!
89 Jaguar XJS convertible, LT1 conversion, now fighting the prince of darkness (aka Lucas electronics)
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Not B Anymore
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Nokesville, VA, USA
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I prefer to use the plastic plugs that you can get at the parts store. If there was a problem I'd rather have the plugs fail than to have a burnt up motor. :dunno:
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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