North American Turbocoupe Organization



Vehicle restart after running
MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#1
So I got new tires on the Bird and drove it yesterday to a friends house.  Went out and it didn't want to start as if the battery was dead.  This was after driving the car for 15 minutes to get there.  Brought in the alternator and that tested fine.  Went to start it this afternoon and it started just fine.  Yesterday I parked on a hill so I was able to start by popping the clutch and it started just fine.

I was thinking bad battery or alternator but the vehicle shouldn't start after a day or two of it being off after nearly 24 hour.  I thought it might be either alternator or battery but that seems to be ruled out.  Also vapor lock since I was able to easily start the vehicle by rolling down a hill and it wasn't that hot yesterday as it was a balmy 35 degrees in Minneapolis.

Any ideas?
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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firebirdparts Offline
Member
#2
All my old cars do this: They get a little corrosion in the battery cable connections and one day you go to start it and maybe you get a little click, or maybe not, and then everything is dead. Then maybe somebody leans on it and it comes right back to life again.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#3
Have the battery load tested by someone who knows what they are doing.

Check for parasitic draw. Should for sure be under 50 mA, and likely 20 mA or less depending on electrical add ons like alarm systems, amplifiers, etc.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#4
It's something more. So the car sat for about 5 days and started without issue. Drive the car and stop at a grocery store or anyplace, go to start the car after sitting a few minutes and it struggles starting. Yesterday I was backing into the garage and killed it (it's been a while since i've driven a clutch) and it took a good minute of cranking and it did start but it sounded like it was turning over rather hard.
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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Kuch Offline
Member
#5
A bad starter will produce a heavy draw on the system and act like that too. If battery, alternator,and connections are clean then check the starter.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof, T3/T4 50 trim, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5", MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
^^^^^ +1

Next time you get a crank no start, check for spark (possible TFI of PIP issue), and be sure you hear the fue pump run it prime cycle when key is turned to RUN, or better yet, check to be sure you have correct fuel pressure during crank.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#7
(04-10-2019, 01:56 AM)MN88TurboCoupe Wrote: It's something more.  So the car sat for about 5 days and started without issue.  Drive the car and stop at a grocery store or anyplace, go to start the car after sitting a few minutes and it struggles starting.  Yesterday I was backing into the garage and killed it (it's been a while since i've driven a clutch) and it took a good minute of cranking and it did start but it sounded like it was turning over rather hard.

A veteran mechanic showed me a test years ago. Turn on the headlights—try and start the car. If the lights go very dim, it’s the battery (or alternator—it’s not charging); if the lights stay bright, it’s something in the starting circuit or electrical system.

Perhaps there is some grain of truth in that which can be applied to your car.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#8
(04-11-2019, 11:00 PM)Kuch Wrote: A bad starter will produce a heavy draw on the system and act like that too. If battery, alternator,and connections are clean then check the starter.

I will try this.  I hadn't thought about that.  I may have to clean the contacts or check and put a heat shield around the starter.  I had a 79 Cutlass Supreme with a 403 with headers and the starter did this and once I put a heat shield around it problems went away.  I miss that Cutlass.
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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