509eddels
Joined:
Jan 2010
Washington
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So I had an oil leak. Thought it was my cam seal. It ended up being a VC gasket. So I replaced that and re did my cam timing. Now I'm idling at about 12 inches of vacuum. Used to be 18. When I'm in gear coasting it will pull enough vacuum. I tried to used the little pcv vacuum tester thing and I have a lot of air coming out of the dipstick. So pcv valve right? And would that or cam timing being off effect how much vacuum the engine will pull. I'm just making sure I'm thinking correctly here.
Thanks for the help
88 5sp TC-cone filter, gillis, walbro 255, and LUK stock replacement clutch, other than that stock
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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Vacuum at idle is about all that counts and it should be 18 -21 on a 4 banger with a relatively stock cam.
If you had 18 and the reset the timing and it's now 12, that would be a good place to start.
Once it is correct, then check the pcv valve:
The PCV valve should be easy enough to check. You should be able to easily blow through the big end. Then, holding it straight up and down, you should not be able to blow anything at all through the small end. Replace it with ONLY the Motorcraft part, EV-127-A
Let us know what you find
Pete Dunham
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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Cam timing has a HUGE effect on idle vacuum. PCV valve is normally open at idle.
My guess is you didnt retime the cam correctly, and you are 1 tooth retarded. Did you recheck ignition timing after resetting the cam? Retarded ignition timing will also lead to low idle vacuum.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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509eddels
Joined:
Jan 2010
Washington
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So cam timin is correct. Pcv is also good. But it was sitting at an angle. I haven't tested the full vacuum system yet so I don't no if I'm still getting air out of the dipstick. Still not getting enough vacuum though. But I've found a bad check valve. And found the that the egr solenoid or over boost buzzer is leaking. Is either one supposed to leak?
Thanks for the help
88 5sp TC-cone filter, gillis, walbro 255, and LUK stock replacement clutch, other than that stock
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509eddels
Joined:
Jan 2010
Washington
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Ok so the ignition timing was bad. Ended up being 10 atc. But in my vacuum leak search I found 2 check valves bad. Replaced them and a couple lines. But now my gas gauge won't work.. Haha. Is there anything up by the egr solenoid that I could have disconnected or something? I searched the book but found nothing.
Thanks for the help
88 5sp TC-cone filter, gillis, walbro 255, and LUK stock replacement clutch, other than that stock
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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The EGR solenoid and the Turbo Pressure switch are on the same bracket on the back of the passenger side shock tower. There is also a vacuum line that runs into the inner fender to a vacuum reservoir and another through the firewall for the heat/AC system (maybe EATC system only?)
http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...enoids.JPG
Vacuum diagram: http://www.turbotbird.com/faqs/Vac_Diagram.htm
Pete Dunham
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509eddels
Joined:
Jan 2010
Washington
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Thanks guys i got it all figured out. Timing was off.. i feel kinda foolish not checking it in the first place. but in my "vacuum leak" chase, i found that two check valves were bad. so all wasnt to bad.
Thanks again.
88 5sp TC-cone filter, gillis, walbro 255, and LUK stock replacement clutch, other than that stock
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509eddels
Joined:
Jan 2010
Washington
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oh wait. i already responded to that part. disregard last post. haha. but the fuel guage started working all of the sudden a few miles down the street.
88 5sp TC-cone filter, gillis, walbro 255, and LUK stock replacement clutch, other than that stock
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