North American Turbocoupe Organization



Usual spring questions. :)
unclefalter Offline
Member
#1
Okay so last fall, on the very last day it was insured to drive, my Tbird decided to spring a leak in its heater core. Which was a real tick-off because it had just been replaced 2 years before. Anyway, the car *never* gets driven when heat is needed, only bone dry sunny days, so I've bypassed it and it seems ok. This being the car's 10 anniversary with me, I decided it was time to do a bit more than the usual this and that.

I don't need the heater core connected to run my A/C, right? I know that runs through the core somehow but it has nothing to do with the water flow? I'm hoping to get the A/C recharged and reactivated. When it's hot, I do use that.

Also I really need to replace the valve cover gasket. Been an issue since day one. Very slight leak. I am intimidated by all the stuff on top of that engine -- compared to my Edsels it looks like a real drag to take apart for that job. *Is* this a job a relative novice like myself (taking lots of time, being extra careful, labelling things) can do? Or should I leave that to an expert?

General storage question -- have any of you ever tried those zippable/sealable car bags for outdoor storage? Unfortunately my Tbird has to sit outside here on the rainy west coast. I bought an 'all weather waterproof cover' from Empire covers. It did ok, but I'd like more protection. I'm wondering if one of those bags would help any or if they are more likely to seal in moisture and problems.

On a final note -- I still am hoping to one day find a Tbird exactly like the one my father had when I was a kid. It was the dark blue with dark blue leather. I would be interested in any tips on a leather car for sale or trade (if in decent condition), just to get closer. I've tried to get to like the cloth and certainly it has its advantages, but for me the leather trim really made the car.
88 TC 5spd - Black/Raven
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TurboBoost88 Offline
Member
#2
you don't need the heater core for the a/c, also the valve cover gasket may look intimidating, but its not that bad. just make sure you get a rubber gasket to replace the old one with. some say the black ranger valve cover gasket is the best.

I store my car in a garage, so I cant help you on the storage bag question.

hope this helps.
88 TurboCoupe,Midnight Metallic Blue on Blue cloth, 140 m.p.h. speedo, 96,000 miles, 5spd. Gills valve, many new parts waiting to be installed..88 TC, Silver, 5spd, My first car, wish I still had that one! Built for customers: 67 Ford Fairlane,69 Mach I,70 Mach I Clone,95 Ranger 2.3/5.0 EFI Conversion,99 Cobra Procharger SC-1 Install/Tune,Factory Five Racing Mark III Cobra #4114,1955 Black on Black Thunderbird for local Ford Dealer owner's wife.
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unclefalter Offline
Member
#3
Thanks muchly. Yeah I think I'm just intimidated by all the equipment up top. Looks like I need to do some belt work too. And its doing this thing where itnidles okay at 1300 or higher rpm.. but when it tries to drop to idle rpm it kind of sputters and coughs and then jacks itself back up again. Thinking I need to break down and get a code reader.
88 TC 5spd - Black/Raven
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TurboBoost88 Offline
Member
#4
that idle issue could be the idle air control valve, they are known to carbon up inside and stick. also, when was the last time the car had a tune up? if its been awhile, it might be a good idea to give it one and use motorcraft parts only if you do. these engines are picky about aftermarket tune-up parts.
88 TurboCoupe,Midnight Metallic Blue on Blue cloth, 140 m.p.h. speedo, 96,000 miles, 5spd. Gills valve, many new parts waiting to be installed..88 TC, Silver, 5spd, My first car, wish I still had that one! Built for customers: 67 Ford Fairlane,69 Mach I,70 Mach I Clone,95 Ranger 2.3/5.0 EFI Conversion,99 Cobra Procharger SC-1 Install/Tune,Factory Five Racing Mark III Cobra #4114,1955 Black on Black Thunderbird for local Ford Dealer owner's wife.
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#5
the hardest part about doing the valve cover gasket, is re-seating the dipstick tube & bracket. you can do it.

You remove 2 bolts on the Intercooler bracket loosen the nut on the bottom of the backet at the manifold, and loosen the intercooler hose clamps. Pull the intercooler and stuff a rag in the turbo. Pull the PCV hose, and the FPR hose. Unbolt the 2 bolts on the EGR and pull the 4 bolts holding the upper intake to the lower intake- being mindful of the dipstick bracket on the back 2 bolts. Unplug the IAC and TPS sensors.

IIRC that's all that needs to come off and you can swing the upper manifold/ throttle body & cables to sit on the master cyl/ABS unit.

Then its just the valve cover bolts, some of which have brackets and/or tabs for holding tubes/hoses/plug wires attached, but no biggie.

I think that's about it. Assemble in reverse order and dont let stuff fall into your engine while its opened up... Smile
1987tc
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Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#6
I don't even remove the upper intake when R&R-ing the Valve Cover. I just remove the TB from the upper and get it out of the way. Just have to be careful not to scratch the VC up on the two studs on the upper. I've not yet removed the valve cover on an '87-'88, but I have done it this way dozens of times on my '86.
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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