North American Turbocoupe Organization



Used a cork gasket.. did i commit a sin?
Pete D Offline
Administrator
#21
Gasket PN:
http://natomessageboard.com/cgi-bin/ulti...001#000000
Pete Dunham


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svo_thunderchicken Offline
Senior Member
#22
is there a turque spec for the valve cover bolts with the blue gasket?
84 TC Silver 5 speed - PE EEC, Big Vam, RR cam, 35lb injectors, E6 swap, T3 60 Trim, 87-88 intercooler and hood, BOV, K&N Cone Filter *under constrution*
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2298891/1

87 TC Black 5 Speed - Stock IHI, BCS Bypassed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2390431
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#23
Quote:s there a turque spec for the valve cover bolts with the blue gasket?
It's the NTT spec; Not too tight

Service manual for the cork gaskets says 62 to 97 lb. inch. That is not lb. feet
Pete Dunham


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Glenn 88TC Offline
Posting Freak
#24
I run a cork gasket. The one on the car now has been on for 4 years. It has been on and off the car many times(10+) and has never leaked.

Just my $.02
NO TC and NO headaches.
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Martin Offline
Senior Member
#25
Has anyone experimented with NO gasket! I have only had my original off once, and used it again, no problems! I have on many occasions, put valvecovers, Timing Chain covers and even oil pans with out anything but Felpro Silicone. It takes some doing, but no mess, and clean, and also no scraping on the engine componenets when you remove them. The key is to evenly spread the silicone sealer (automotive type, not the bathtub kind) around the valve cover. Ensure a good width coverage and some depth to it, at least as think as your original gasket. Now, put it to one side, not on the car, and wait. Test frequently, to see if the silicone is starting to set up. Eventually it will reach a stage where it is fairly solid and firm on the outside, but still a bit "raw" in the middle. At this time, intall the cover and bolt it down, LOOSLEY, only. Just a snug twist on all the bolts, even torque all around. Wait for a few more hours, overnight is best, then torque it down the rest of the way! The silicone, because it is still a bit uncured, will form nicely to all and any defects and devations on the head (or block) and because it was semi cured, it will not stick to the heaqd, only to the vlave cover.
The trick its getting the right thickness on the cover, and not letting set to its full cured hardness. I have done this on many different cars, trucks, really bigggggg trucks and equipment, and works very well.
Martin
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low
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svo_thunderchicken Offline
Senior Member
#26
well when i installed it, my dad made me put some stuff on it called "indian head" nasty lookin stuff he sayed it will make it seal better.. who knows..... im still up for debate on removing the cork gasket before i reasemble the motor
84 TC Silver 5 speed - PE EEC, Big Vam, RR cam, 35lb injectors, E6 swap, T3 60 Trim, 87-88 intercooler and hood, BOV, K&N Cone Filter *under constrution*
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2298891/1

87 TC Black 5 Speed - Stock IHI, BCS Bypassed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2390431
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Robert Camp Offline
Posting Freak
#27
"did i commit a sin?"

I think so, if you're Catholic! I believe it was around 1978 that the Vatican declared "cork valve cover gaskets" equivalent to "original sin". If you're not Catholic, I wouldn't worry too much though.
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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40bob Offline
Member
#28
I use the cork gaskets and glue them to the valve cover with permatex Hi-tack...No problems so far.

bob
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Mike C Offline
Senior Member
#29
If you didn't put everything back together it would be cheap insurance to change to any rubber gasket. This I believe would be the consensus. New cork gasket on my new engine lasted less than 1000 miles and when it let go it, it leaked real bad. Another 2 cents
Mike C
86 5 speed TC black with MS spats and spoiler since 88, 3.73 8.8 since 89. Fresh rebuild at 240K with new Racer Walsh roller cam, 88 hood. All 3" exhaust w/3" performance cat. 13" Cobra brakes,SFC, Max/Motorsport C/C plates,adjustable lower control arms w/ double adjustable uppers. Konis & Eibachs.
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bendutro Offline
Junior Member
#30
What about HOW they're being installed?

An old-time mechanic and I were going around the whole cork vs rubber thing and I realized that he hated rubber because he was installing it like cork. Cork seems to need a little permatex and it has to be retorqued periodically while rubber seems to seal best with CLEAN surfaces that aren't dinged or warped and with light-moderate torque.
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