#1 |
Just an update on the '85...
First I would like to say, don't take the pics on Ebay listings for gospel. Turns out the drivers door armrest is pretty shot. I have used a full tube of 2part epoxy, and am still not happy with it (anyone got a decent grey one)
So far I have
1. Full tune up
2. New FPR
3. Heater core (ugh!!!)
4. Removed and cleaned Autolight wheels
5. Dissasembled and cleaned buttons on EATC unit
6. Rewired radio
7. Replaced Drvr and Pass door striker bolts
8. Replaced Alternator
9. Cleaned engine/compartment
10. Replaced driver's door lock actuator
11. Set TPS voltage (was over 1.8v at idle)
12. Reset base idle speed
Still to do:
1. Check/Set Timing
2. Replace drvr's side motor mount (already ordered)
3. Replace/Repair Strut mounts (see post)
4. Figure out armrest situation
5. GIVE THIS THING SOME PEP!!!!
Ok, so maybe I'm spoiled (230 hp PT Cruiser, 270 hp Volvo wagon, 240ish hp TC), but this thing borders on pokey. It runs great, and doesnt even have the intermittent single misfire at idle, but geez is it ever slow. I wish I had another 85/86 auto to compare it to. Like I said, maybe my buttdyno is spoiled, but this thing does not feel like 155hp. I even pulled the KS tonight, and still no better. I really didn't want to modify this car, but maybe I will need to... Just don't want to ruin its value as an original car, or kill the C3....
I'd love to find a FMS FMIC, at last then it is still OEM stock... Slap in the LB3 and take her up to 18 psi, and that should be enough...
Any thoughts?
-Shane
First I would like to say, don't take the pics on Ebay listings for gospel. Turns out the drivers door armrest is pretty shot. I have used a full tube of 2part epoxy, and am still not happy with it (anyone got a decent grey one)
So far I have
1. Full tune up
2. New FPR
3. Heater core (ugh!!!)
4. Removed and cleaned Autolight wheels
5. Dissasembled and cleaned buttons on EATC unit
6. Rewired radio
7. Replaced Drvr and Pass door striker bolts
8. Replaced Alternator
9. Cleaned engine/compartment
10. Replaced driver's door lock actuator
11. Set TPS voltage (was over 1.8v at idle)
12. Reset base idle speed
Still to do:
1. Check/Set Timing
2. Replace drvr's side motor mount (already ordered)
3. Replace/Repair Strut mounts (see post)
4. Figure out armrest situation
5. GIVE THIS THING SOME PEP!!!!
Ok, so maybe I'm spoiled (230 hp PT Cruiser, 270 hp Volvo wagon, 240ish hp TC), but this thing borders on pokey. It runs great, and doesnt even have the intermittent single misfire at idle, but geez is it ever slow. I wish I had another 85/86 auto to compare it to. Like I said, maybe my buttdyno is spoiled, but this thing does not feel like 155hp. I even pulled the KS tonight, and still no better. I really didn't want to modify this car, but maybe I will need to... Just don't want to ruin its value as an original car, or kill the C3....
I'd love to find a FMS FMIC, at last then it is still OEM stock... Slap in the LB3 and take her up to 18 psi, and that should be enough...
Any thoughts?
-Shane
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003
'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255
To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255
To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj