Uhh Ohh...

Hey everyone... Ummmm... Is it possible that I either installed something wrong or that I overtightened anything re-installing my motor? I THINK I put everything together right. I can turn the crank by hand, but it's very tight. So, it's not locked up, right? Please tell me it's not locked up. Please?

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Les T.
88 TC - Sandalwood/Black
Torquer cam-valves ground-lifters/springs, Garrett T3-20 PSI w/intercooler, 2.5" single exhaust-Dynomax, Black/Gold engine detail, Light Blue Granite dash trim-White Gauges (100MPH-7k RPM-24PSI) *IN MANY, MANY PIECES*
88 TC - Strange Dark Red
Stock motor, WEAK fuel pump, crappy interior, decent body (Oooops.. as of 7/20 it has a smashed header panel - Courtesy of a GMC bumper)

I dont want to sound like a dork or anything but did you make sure it was out of gear when you turned it over? Hopefully its something simple like this.

Did it turn over before this project? Did you put in new rod and/or crank bearings? Did you plastigauge the new bearings. Did you oil or white lithium the bearings, old or new?
Is your current problem with the head on or off (compression)?

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 08-25-2001).]

When you tore the motor down did you number the rod caps. Some are already numbered but some aren't. All it takes is one rod cap being assemble backwards. Pistons all pointed in the right direction? Reason I ask this questions is a friend of mine rebuilt his 283, It was extremely tight when it put it in, After about two trys on the starter it locked up. He pulled it back down, I like to have never figured out which rod caps went where. Still wasn't for sure but I did get it where it would turn over easier. So if you did everything the above post mentioned, assembly lube, etc... I'd check a little deeper. A rebuilt engine will naturally be a little tight but should be fairly easy to turn over.


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1986 Turbo Coupe, basically stock at this time/ 1988 Cougar LX 5.0/ 1990 Bronco II / 1991 F150 ex cab 4X4

Ummmm... No the vehicle wasn't in gear.
Also, (gulp) this motor wasn't taken apart. I bought it assembled.
Yes, it did turn before, not as easy as I thought it should, but it turned. I know it did because when I put the flywheel and clutch on it turned.
Could the clutch be sitting crooked or something? I used an alignment tool. I put everything back together as it came apart. I think.
Is it possible that it could be tight from sitting (used) for, say, 6 months or so? It's been in my garage for a while. If so, will it improve after it has oil in it?
I'm about ready to shoot it, and this one is the nicer of the two. Thanks for the quick responses and help.
Les

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Les T.
88 TC - Sandalwood/Black
Torquer cam-valves ground-lifters/springs, Garrett T3-20 PSI w/intercooler, 2.5" single exhaust-Dynomax, Black/Gold engine detail, Light Blue Granite dash trim-White Gauges (100MPH-7k RPM-24PSI) *IN MANY, MANY PIECES*
88 TC - Strange Dark Red
Stock motor, WEAK fuel pump, crappy interior, decent body (Oooops.. as of 7/20 it has a smashed header panel - Courtesy of a GMC bumper)

Put a little (1-2 tablespoons) of oil in the cylinders. This won't make it turn easiler bit will give the rings some protections. I doubt if it the clutch as long as you put the plate in facing the right direction - there is a difference - one side is the flywheel side. Do you want me to stop by and take a look at it? Give me a call.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

Hi. Do you have a beam type torque wrench? If you do why dont you pull the plugs and turn over the crank using the torque wrench.
Tell us what the torque reads and I will do the same when i change my plugs later. This should give us an idea if its tight, or if you are just getting paranoid like all the rest of us get when we put a motor back in our cars. [Image: smile.gif]
Good luck

[This message has been edited by sctur601 (edited 08-25-2001).]

Yeah, I was also going to ask if the plugs were in our out... Also it helps to remove the serpentine belt.

If you got the bellhousing to bolt up flush to the block...then the clutch plate is aligned...it wouldn't go flush otherwise.

You sure that the ratchet isn't just slipping on the oil (sorry...couldn't resist).

Well, it's REALLY tight, plugs in or out. The belt wasn't on it when I tried it last.
I tried the oil thing, Pete, and it seemed to help just a bit. -If you wanna come play, FEEL FREE!!! You too, Dan. [Image: smile.gif] That way, you can see how clean it is. I TOLD you if I cleaned all the oil off the motor, it wouldn't run. DIDN'T I???
Anyway, I can get it to crank, but you can tell it's not exactly right. I'm thinking that either the rings are somewhat rusted from sitting, or the main bearings/crank are shot.
I can't quite get it to fire (It WILL crank with the key, but you can tell it's hard like a big motor), so I'm going to flip the cam 180* and see what happens next. Maybe if I can force it to run somehow, it'll loosen up a bit. Maybe not. I'll keep you posted.
Everybody keep your fingers crossed!

Well, it finally stuck. REAL BAD. So I figure, what the hell, it'll move if we get the car rolling and pop the clutch. Right? We get the car to about 20mph and upon release of the clutch, the tires STOPPED. Completely. It will NOT release now, even with a pry bar on the crank bolt. SIGH. Guess I get to do it all over again.
Dammit.

Now I have 2 that won't work. I've put about 4 days (8am to dark) in this car. I'm exhausted. I'm confused. I'm pissed. I'm about ready to quit. This sucks.

[This message has been edited by Turbocruiser88 (edited 08-25-2001).]