North American Turbocoupe Organization



Two questions
Import Killer Offline
Senior Member
#1
1- How much of a difference would a motorcraft cap and rotor make? I have a rough idle and i might start there.

2- How do you get more vacuum out of the motor? Mine is really low, if i advance the cam, would my vacuum go up? Thanks.
1987 Turbocoupe
Painted sonic blue pearl
Ground effects w/S351 wing
17x9 Chrome Cobra Rs
255/45/ZR17 Kumho 712s
KYB suspension
MOMO shift knob and boot
K&N cone air filter, Gillis boost valve, T-3 turbo, ported intake and E6, A237 roller cam, MSD coil, Kirban FPR
Full 3" exhuast w/Ultra Flo muffler
Brute force clutch
White faced indiglo gauges
2 12" Rockford Fosgate subs and amp
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oldraven Offline
Senior Member
#2
(not one of the experts, so take this with a grain of salt)

1- TurboCoupe + idle problems = every guy here at one point or another. Cap and rotor are a great place to start. Primary word here is 'start'. Wink I do hope it works for you, but I'd get ready to open the wallet.

2- Find the source of the leak, and fix it. Rather than try and 'get more vacuum' out of the engine, I'd try and find out why vacuum is low in the first place.

Now, all the guys who really know these cars better than their own spouses, give him a real answer. Big Grin
I'd like to think my life has a soundtrack, and it sounds just like the white album.

1987 Turbo Coupe, 5-spd. Candy Apple Red w/ Charcoal Smoke Accents, k&n drop in, 2.5" duals. Stirring from her winter slumber.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/oldraven

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CAW!!
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tps87turbo Offline
Posting Freak
#3
The Idle & low vacume could be a worn cam,or a bad TPS or IAC. What reading do you have for the Vacume?

A tune up with genuine Motorcraft Parts is a good start. Autolite 764 Plugs gapped at .032, Motorcraft Wires, Dist Cap & Rotor is what you need for a tune-up. Set the Timing to 10deg & let us know if you still have a problem. The cheapest place to pick this stuff up is Rockauto.com
Tony Sceia -

HIS Red 88 TC
http://turbotbird.com/showroom/data_r-z/...a_88tc.php
HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Work in Progress
87 Gray TC Parts Car - Gave to BJL and is now his daily driver
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
There is a long list of possible causes for low vacuum and "rough idle" is on that list. So finding the cause of the rough idle would be the first step.

Cap and rotor are important but what makes you thing they are bad? How many miles on them? How many miles on the plugs and wires and what brand(s) are they. Plugs and wires are the two "sensitive" components. Any good grade of cap and wire will work, but the choices for plugs and especially wires, is more limited. If it's been awhile since it was tuned up, start there. How long since the air filter was changed (stock) or cleaned (K&N)? Have you cleaned the IAC in the last couple years? Eliminate the basics and let us know if that helps or not
Pete Dunham


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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Quote:Originally posted by Pete D:
Any good grade of cap and wire will work, but the choices for plugs and especially wires, is more limited.
Pete meant to say that any good grade of cap and "rotor" will work, the tbird is very finicky on the wires as Pete mentions at the end of his sentence.
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
Thanks Kev, brain fart and finger lock at the same time!
Pete Dunham


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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#7
I use the AutoZone "Duralast" cap and rotor set. They seem to be of higher quality than the Motorcraft cap and rotor because the contacts are made of brass instead of aluminum (more conductive), and they are not "loose" in the cap like the Motorcraft ones always seem to be.
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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ERIC J snowbird Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Quote:Originally posted by Ryan H:
the contacts are made of brass instead of aluminum (more conductive)
Why is it better to have brass contacts (less conductive) as oppossed to aluminum(more conductive)? Just curious.
- ERIC J
87 Black 5speed, 88 Black 5speed.
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Martin Offline
Senior Member
#9
I would go after the Vaccuum issue first. Check all vac lines, closely. THe rough Idle could be in part because of your low reading.
After that, do a compression test and post your results.
I believe Pete just posted a reply about using a Vac guage to help troubleshoot possible vac problems as well!
Martin
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low
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TurboT Offline
Member
#10
I love using the whole brake cleaner spray the vac lines till the rpms alter....then you know where your leak is and how much it's gonna cost you to replace. It's cheap, quick and very effective. Just a thought.
T.J.
FORCED INDUCTION RULES!!!
86 Turbo Cougar
Boost Valve, New Boost Gauge
FMIC, Finally new rear Rubber
Newer Stock Turbo @ 16psi
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