North American Turbocoupe Organization



Turbocharger questions(Kinda long...sorry)
Rebel72903 Offline
Member
#1
OK...don't laugh too hard but..how do I tell which turbo charger I have on my car? It is an '86 model with a 5 speed. brown top injectors(if that makes any difference). Does the turbo spin all the time or only when under boost? Reason I ask is...I have a rythmic vibration at about 2500-3000 rpm's. Kinda tough to describe the sound but it sounds like...haaruuump...haaruuump with about a second or so in between the vibration noise.(Told ya not to laugh too loud)It makes the noise in gear or out of gear....moving or sitting still. Possibly a bearing in the turbo?(That's why I asked if it spins all the time...)The car still boosts fine...but if you hold the RPM's at that range,then you get the noise. I have no idea...any ideas fellow Turbo Coupe lovers and guru's? Thanks in advance for the help..
THIS BOARD ROCKS!!!!!

Jeff
86 T/C black with red leather interior,tinted windows,5 spd,3" exhaust,
dynomax dumped at the axle,lots of mods planned,gonna be a heck of a ride,hang on
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Noname
Guest
#2
You have a water-cooled t3 with a .60 compressor / (.63!!!) exhaust side. <- Thanks Dan.

The turbo does spin all the time (even at idle), but when not under load it's rotation is entirely negigible (perhaps 100rpm at idle? under high boost / load conditions, turbos can spin in excess of 100,000rpm). I'd look elsewhere for your noise.

Just to clarify.....if you have the car sitting still in your driveway and rev the engine up to 2500-3000rpm in neutral, will you hear this noise? Do you notice any sort of fluctuation in the tach when this noise occurs? If the engine speed drops, that might indicate an ignition problem. I'm not really sure what you mean by "haruupm", but that does "sound" like the sound our 2.3's are known for making at idle when they seem to miss a beat or two, drop a couple hundred rpm, and then pick back up.

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Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 139k miles
k&n cone in fenderwell, PRofec B electronic boost controller, kirban adjustable fpr , walbro 255 hi-pressure pump, Bailey BOV, ported e6, Spearco 26x8x3 FMIC, a237 cam, mildly ported head, t3/t4 50 trim / stage III .63, full 3" exhaust, eec-tuner, 55pph injectors, dave compton a/f meter, Nitto 555R drag radials
Best 1/4 mile (before tuner, turbo, injectors, drag radials, cam, and FMIC): 14.120 (with 1.983 60' time)
Best trap speed: 98.44mph

[This message has been edited by SteveXX82 (edited 07-19-2003).]

[This message has been edited by SteveXX82 (edited 07-19-2003).]
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Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Quote:Originally posted by SteveXX82:
You have a water-cooled t3 with a .60 compressor / .48 exhaust side.

Steve, are you sure ?

I thought it would be a T3 .60/.63 ? The only .60/.48's I've seen were on early automatics.

Of course I could be wrong.

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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Noname
Guest
#4
Quote:Originally posted by Dan E:
Steve, are you sure ?


I give up, Dan [Image: smile.gif] After double checking myself, my recollection of the differently sized t3's was backwards.....The older tc's (and svo's, cougars, capris) DID have the .63 housing, whereas only the later merkurs and svo's had the .48 housing. Sharp eye, Dan!
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Rebel72903 Offline
Member
#5
Steve and Dan...thanks for the replies...but to clarify...no it makes no difference in the tach when it happens and yes it is when sitting still or moving...either way. I really don't suspect an ignition problem becasue it doesn't fit the usual pattern of ignition miss problems...but as was stated....I could be wrong.
86 T/C black with red leather interior,tinted windows,5 spd,3" exhaust,
dynomax dumped at the axle,lots of mods planned,gonna be a heck of a ride,hang on
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
If I had to guess I'd say the bearings in one of the accessories - P/S pump, alternator, water pump. Get it fired up to the rpm range it happens in. Stick the blunt end of a screwdriver in your ear and put the other end on some none moving part of each of the accessories. That may help find it.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Letting the cat out of the bag is a whole lot easier than putting it back in.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm
Pete Dunham


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Rebel72903 Offline
Member
#7
Pete,thanks for the suggestion...gonna try that and see if anything is the result. Thanks again
86 T/C black with red leather interior,tinted windows,5 spd,3" exhaust,
dynomax dumped at the axle,lots of mods planned,gonna be a heck of a ride,hang on
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Rebel72903 Offline
Member
#8
One other thing I fogot to ask,also. Does the car have to have in intercooler to have a gillis valve on it? if so,how much of a problem is it to install one(the intercooler) where there was not one in the first place?
86 T/C black with red leather interior,tinted windows,5 spd,3" exhaust,
dynomax dumped at the axle,lots of mods planned,gonna be a heck of a ride,hang on
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
You can put a gillis on a non-I/C car and run up to about 14 psi. Some have run higher without an I/C but around 14 is sort of a safe level. The advantage of the I/C is you can run higher boost. The rule of thumb I have always heard is that with this engine, a psi of boost is worth 10 HP. I'm sure that is generalized and varies some, but you get the idea. Adding an intercooler and upping the boost is a cost efficient way to gain HP

Lots of people have put I/Cs in cars that didn't come with them. It's a project but not technically complicated. You need to decide what intercooler will work best for your combination. Then you have to decide where to put it, how to mount it there and fabricate the plumbing to connect it all up.
Pete Dunham


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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#10
Hey, the only thing about running the gillis valve is that it is usually to increase and control the boost pressure. To turn the boost pressure up on your 86, it would be best to have it intercooled so you don't get detonation. As for plumbing the intercooler, it should be straight forward, just stick it in between the turbo and the throttle body to cool the incoming air. If you use the 87/88 intercooler, it would be best to get the 87/88 hood to make it functional.
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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