Not to offend anyone but check the turbo your self before you hand over the long green. Take the inlet tube off the copressor housing so you can reach the compressor blades and the end of the shaft. First try to move the shaft back and forth. There should be almost no perceptible movement. Do it again while turning the blades, are the blades rubbing on anything. If they are, it needs a rebuild.
Now move the shaft side to side. There can be a little more movement but again it should be almost imperceptible. Do it again while turning the wheel. If the blades touch the housing, it needs a rebuild. Examine the ends of the blades for erosion at the end of the blades. See if any of the blade ends are chipped, cracked or broken off. If so it's going to be out of balance and need new parts.
Make sure it came off a ford car or it probably will not bolt up. Other cars used T3s but either the inlet tube pattern will be different or the exhaust elbow won't work. The elbow off you IHI will not work even on a Ford T3.
Removal:
Start putting penetrating oil on the nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold 2-3 days before you expect to do the job. Reapply frequently
[Image: biggrin.gif] Option #1: you can pull the turbo and exhaust manifold as a unit. and then seperate them on the bench. If you slelct htis option then do the penetrating oil on the exhaust manifold to cylinder head bolts.
Remove the inter cooler.
Remove the VAM to compressor inlet hose
Disconnect the wire that is grounded to the compressor inlet pipe.
Unbolt the down pipe from the exhaust elbow.
Your going to have to drain the cooling system and get the water supply hose off and the coolant return line unfastened. You will also have to remove the valve cover breather tube at the compressor inlet.
Remove the oil supply line. Unfasten the oil Return line from the turbo flange (2 bolts). You will have to get it loose at the other end also but it's easier to do that once you get the nuts that hold the turbo to the exh manfld loose. This allows a little play in the turbo support bracket which the oil return line passes through. It also allows the line to rotate as you unscrew it from the block fitting. The fitting on the block end of the return lines was made to rotate freely on the flexible part of the reture line. Over time they become corroded together. Some people just start unscrewing the block end and don't realize they are twisiting the flexible part until after they have ruiened it (leaker). By unbolting it a the turbo first and then carfully unscrewing the block end you can turn the whole line as it is unscrewed so that is doesn't twist. Even though you may not reuse it (it won't work on a T3), somebody else may need it someday.
If you are going to remove the turbo from the exh manifold you will need a 17mm open end/box wrench. Get a cheap one because you will probably have to grind away some of the thickness of the wrench head to get to the nuts that hold the turbo on the exh manfld. You can get a socket on the bottom nut on the front. The other three have to be wrenched, a little at a time so that you walk everthing back toward the fender.
I probably forgot something, but I think that covers most of the removal. Keep us posted on the progress.
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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm