North American Turbocoupe Organization



Turbo Noise
Rob H Offline
Member
#1
I hate starting new threads if I don't have to. I did search and found a number of threads already but the descriptions didn't match up for me I don't think.
I did see several had at one time left links to videos but those links have expired.
So anyway, I recorded a 30 second video hoping you guys will give it a listen to and tell me what you think.
In this, I am driving it a bit harder than I normally would, but I'm also getting up to speed on a busy highway.
I am asking more of the turbo than I normally would. It doesn't do this when its low boost.
Also, when rewatchibg the video I thought the car and exhaust sounded awesome. It's not quite as nice in person unfortunately.Yet Smile

Listen Here
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#2
I would take off the inlet elbow and give the small nut that holds the compressor wheel in place a good move. If it moves or has any play in it, your bearings may be going. Try also to spin it by hand and feel for any binding or interference at all. Also check your connections for the intercooler to be sure that no air is blowing past them. Let us know.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Rob H Offline
Member
#3
That sounds daunting, at least the part about getting in as far as the inlet elbow. Will be doing the exhaust soon, would it make sense to check then at the same time?
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Inlet elbow comes off with 2 bolts after the turbo inlet hose is removed. Takes under 5 minutes to remove the hose and elbow if you work very slow.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#5
Yes, with the elbow off, you can get your fingers right on the compressor blade nut and give a spin. The exhaust side is actually harder to get to with the down pipe elbow on it. Your better off checking the turbo bearings through the front at the elbow.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Rob H Offline
Member
#6
I can see the elbow, it looks like it would indeed take 5 minutes to check. As long as you don't count the 15 minutes of me searching my manual for a diagram to see what and where the inlet elbow is exactly Smile
So I do see it.
I had my car in a shop last year, he replaced the wastegate actuator for me, I can see he has used red rtv as a gasket between the elbow and the turbo.
Will that gasket be OK if I remove the elbow or would I need to redo that?
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#7
Rob,
I added a pic here so you can see what the elbow looks like, I know you said you found it, but good reference anyways. I would replace the gasket with some parts store bought gasket material rather than RTV. Simply trace out your desired shape using the elbow and cut out. I would not want any RTV near the intake of a turbo. Keep the questions coming if you have them, glad to help.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Rob H Offline
Member
#8
Alright thanks Kuch I'll ask when I'm over there Monday. Any idea what the material is in case there end up being options?
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#9
Just use the standard "paper" type grey gasket material. It is usually sold in a roll at most auto parts stores. Easy to trace and cut with scissors or an xacto blade
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#10
Agree 10000% with Kuch on using a real gasket. Imagine if a piece if squished out RTV broke loose and hit the compressor blades spinning at 120,000 RPM!
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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