North American Turbocoupe Organization



turbo compresser wheel
junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#1
Is there some trick I don't know about to take off the nut holding down the compresser wheel?

Putting in a fresh seal, coating the exhaust side, and if it doesn't have it a 360degree thrust bearing Big Grin

But the stupid nut don't want to come off that easy, should I take my dremel and slice the exhaust so I can put a screw driver to it or would that throw off the balance?
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bnate Offline
Junior Member
#2
10mm 12 point should hold the exhaust side, remember the nut is right hand thread so it works backwards. Shouldnt be that tight. Dont cut the exhaust wheel or stick a screwdriver in it or youll be in the market for a new one, itl throw it way out of balance and it wont be salvagable.
88 TC 5spd- mostly stock dd 155K SOLD, 96 LX V8- all stock spare on 3rd intake in 130K, 96 F250 diesel 4x4- hauler 177K, 93 F250 diesel 4x4- plow truck 72K, 71 F100- toy soon to get V10 power, 01 H-D XL1200S, 65 GTO- neverending project . I have too much crap.
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junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#3
10mm is to small for the exhaust side, to tell the truth the exhaust side is mangled :eek:

The fins are just fine but were you would put a wrench or socket on the exhaust is messed up to the point were nothing will grip, tryed every sized wrench, every sized socket, even an adjustable wrench but nothing holds. They all just slip Sad

Want to salvage the turbo but I cant get the commpresser nut off to do so.

I don't know why my exhaust side looks so messed up, almost like some one really torq. the hell out of it striping the whole thing so you could never rebuild it like I'm trying to :mad:

Been up all night with stupid CHRA think I need to take a break, tomorrows a new day Cool
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86 XR7 5spd Offline
Senior Member
#4
the exh side doesnt come off = wheel is part of main shaft

it looks 'mangled' cux thats where garrett removes material to achieve the balance

pull the 10mm nut off the comp wheel ; slide wheel off shaft ; slide turb wheel/shaft out of chra
David T
T5 / ported E3 / .63 / 35# / K&N
2.5" exhaust w/ cherry bomb
30+ mpg! 8.2 0-60, [email protected] 1/4 (gTech)
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junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#5
Ok I fixed it, the nightmares over Big Grin

Nothing a table mounted vice cant hold onto, was having problems with 3/8 nut on the comp wheel. The thing was really on there.

This is cool other then bolts frezing to the housings rebuilding a turbo is simple Cool
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#6
Words of wisdom, and experience:

Have the (whole) rotating assembly rebalanced

Use THREADLOCK on the shaft when re assembling

Torque compressor nut to spec.

If you want to know why, just ask the mangled freshly rebuilt T3 in my basment (forgot the threadlock). It ate itself in less than 200 miles. Boosted from idle though... I miss that. T04E just a bit laggy... :-(
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#7
That I will do just whats the purpose of REbalancing the rotating assembly :confused:

By what I've gathered my turbo was balanced sepretly, so if rebalancing is required should I go and balance the assembly whole or sep. like it was when made. Any advantage to one or the other :confused:

Turbo was fine, heard you have to rebuild them every 100k miles. Had a bit of side play but never has made contact with the housing Smile

Its strange, turbochargers are so simple in design but when put on an engine :eek:
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junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#8
Just found out some info wether its useful or not he goes

No you don't have to put thread lock on the nut, you have to torque the nut down 18-20in ib then turn it again 90-110degrees. The nut is sappost to be self locking Rolleyes

When it comes to turbo balancing, no rebalancing your turbo is not needed. Garrett balanced the turbos so well you don't have to worry, the only ression for rebalancing a turbo would be to reduce exhaust noise.

The only time you ever need to mark the relationship of the wheel to the shaft is if your turbo was balanced as one unit, by what I've gathered Garrett is in pratice of balancing the wheels sepretely. To find out which way your turbo is balanced to to look at if the shaft nut is grinded down, if grinded it was balanced as a complete unit.

Then I found out Garrett makes ball bearing carticages that can be simply machined into your Garrett T3 letting you turbo spool up 500 to 1000rpms earlier Big Grin

Never realized how simple it was to rebuild a turbo if done right Cool
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Sluggo Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Quote:Originally posted by junkedturbo:
When it comes to turbo balancing, no re balancing your turbo is not needed. Garrett balanced the turbos so well you don't have to worry, the only reason for re balancing a turbo would be to reduce exhaust noise.

The only time you ever need to mark the relationship of the wheel to the shaft is if your turbo was balanced as one unit, by what I've gathered Garrett is in practice of balancing the wheels separately. To find out which way your turbo is balanced to to look at if the shaft nut is grinded down, if grinded it was balanced as a complete unit.
And the reputable source of this info is???
Doug  
88 TC / T5,4.56,Log,SC60,NPR,2277,MegaSquirt
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junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#10
Emailed Garrett and this is what an agent sent me, if you don't beleave me you can ask them your self Rolleyes

We are frequently asked by customers who purchase our rebuild kits if the turbo will need to be rebalanced after they complete the rebuild. You will not need to have your turbo rebalanced if the following applies:


Neither of the wheels (compressor and/or turbine) have touched or rubbed the housings
There are no worn, chipped, or bent fins on either of the wheels
You were careful to mark the position of the wheels in relationship to each other prior to disassembly and rebuilding, and then realigned these marks upon reassembly

But I hear from www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turborebuild.html that marking the relation of the wheels all depends on how your turbo was balanced.
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