North American Turbocoupe Organization

Tripminder tripping me up!
BlueBird Offline
Junior Member
I recently install a tripminder in my 07/88 tbird. It did not have any other clock/tripminder harness so I had to run two wires down to the CPU myself for the VSS and DOL. I'm getting a good VSS because the miles match my odometer and tripminder.

But, my MPGs are up around 200 or because it's not seeing any gas go by. When I check the gallons used, it's always at .0 or nearly so.

I've tried reseating the connector and cleaning the contacts on the tripminder. I tested the DOL signal with a logic probe and I do get pulses going by.

My DOL wire is connected to pin 34 on my LA3. It's on a light blue/ pink wire in the middle row of pins, 4 holes from the bolt toward the pin 60 side of the connector.

My question is. WTF!! I've tried 2 different tripminders with the same results.

I used the connector that came with the tripminder. It had only one ground in there which I assumed worked in the donor car that way. I've seen documentation around that says there are two grounds in the connector. I tried a jumper wire ground with no effect.

My other question: Where does the DOL wire go in the harness if my car was never wired for a tripminder? What else uses the DOL signal?

Stock 1988 Ford Turbo Coupe
Bird Blog Adventures in restoration.
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Ballman Offline
Senior Member
Good Q , I have the same deal going, bought a tripminder clock , but have no wire plugs , so How can this be hooked up and working right . let me know on what you had to do for the whole install . Thanks, DW . [email protected]

Pete D Offline
Does any of this help?

Did you check this article;
Pete Dunham


Pete D Offline
Here is instructions that Ryan H put up:

To connect a tripminder computer to an '88 TC, you will need the following:

-Tripminder computer out of a Crown Vic or similar, specific models listed on
-Spool(s) of 14 gauge wire (plural if you want to use different colors, this is prefered)
-Solder & iron, at least a 90W gun
-Wire strippers/snippers
-Sharp razor blades
-Philips screwdriver
-10mm 1/4" drive wratchet or wratcheting box end (preffered, makes things easier)
-7mm 1/4" drive socket or set of small Torx bits
-Super glue

Disconnect the battery.

Now that we've gathered all of this junk together, we can start! Remove the passenger side kick panel. Pull the extra wiring out of the way to expose the EEC and use the 10mm of your choice to remove the 60 pin connector from your EEC. Pop the black protective "cap" off of the connector via the 4 tabs.

You need to locate pin 3 (dark green/white) and pin 34 (light blue/purple). Pin 3 is easy because it is numbered. Pin 34 can be difficult, but remember it is in the middle, between pin 14 and 54. Pin 54 is a solid red wire, so just look for the light blue/purple wire behind pin 54 (red wire) and you've got it.

Be sure to use multiple colors of wires and remember which is which. WRITE IT DOWN.
Now you will need to splice into these wires. The way I did it was cut a piece of insulation off, wrap the end of one of my 14ga wires around it and solder it. Then I taped them up. The hard part is done! Put the black cap back on and screw the connector back into the EEC.

Now drop these wires for a second and lets get to the clock. Take the dash trim off by removing the screws that are hidden up under the lip. You will need to remove the two panels on the bottom where the light and fuel switch is to get to some hidden screws for the dash trim. After this is removed, remove the clock. It is a 7mm 6 point socket or a small Torx bit. The 7mm socket is easier for me, but not everyone has one. I guess not everyone has Torx bits either? lol

The clock has a 4 pin connector on it consisting of a brown wire, dark green/light green wire, white/purple wire, and a black/light green wire. Set this aside, don't lop the connector off just yet. Now is the time to run the wires. Take the two spools of wire you connected to your EEC and run them up to the clock from behind the glove box and dash. Run them to where the clock harness is and you can then cut the wires, unless you want a whole spool behind your dash.

From here on out, its just a matter of connecting the wires, which I have drawn a very simple diagram for. The wire colors for your trip computer may not match, but its the pin pattern that counts. The wiring in your dash harness should be exactly what is on the diagram if you have an '88 though.

After you get it all wired up, all thats left is swapping the brackets from your old clock to the new tripminder. I popped mine off and super glued them on. Then toss your panels back together and enjoy the mileage!

[ 08-05-2006, 04:18 PM: Message edited by: Ryan H ]
Pete Dunham


Pete D Offline
more stuff I collected"

For the 87-88 TC:
Very easy to do. The plug is different from the clock. All that you need is to cut off the clock

connector, and
reattach the constant 12V, switch 12V and ground to the new connector, and run 2 new wires to the
connector... one from the VSS +, and one from the DOL, both easily accessed at the EEC. Took me under an
hour to replace the clock with the trip computer.

By Jeff K.



Here is the pin-out (with wire color codes) from the 1986 EVTM. The EVTM only addresses the 3.8 and 5.0

engines, but since the tripminders are interchangeable, I think it should work for all:

Pins 1 and 2 are not displayed. The pictures provided by RDOG show that no wires are present in the

Pin 3 (LB/BK) is ignition power.

Pin 4 (LB/R) is Fuse 13, light dimmer.

Pin 5 (LG/Y) is Battery Positive.

Pin 6 (LB/P) is Fuel flow input from the ECA/EEC, pin 34 on the 2.3/3.8/5.0 1985/1986 EEC, and also on

87/88 EEC according to this link

Pin 7 (BK) is Ground, just runs to pin 9.

Pin 8 (DG/W) is speed input from speed sensor, connects at connector C150 on the 1986 TC.

Pin 9 (BK) is Ground.

Pin 10 is not connected.
Pete Dunham


Ballman Offline
Senior Member
WoW Yes, that is alot of help, thanks for that info . DW

zbird Offline
Posting Freak
I am gonna be tackling the Tripminder soon. I have everything ready and I just got the wire needed today. Should be Fun. LOL
Dom Z
88 T/C med grey. 140 MPH Speedo, Kirban FPR, Gillis valve,Tripminder, K&N.
87 T/C Silver, Auto (project Daily driver)
99 F150 4x4
14 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo
88 T/C
87 Silver

BlueBird Offline
Junior Member
Thanks Pete. Those are the links I followed to install the tripminder. The unit I had did not have the 7 to 9 jumper between them for ground but that seemed factory so I figured it wouldn't matter. I trip a jumper between them also by just stuffing a wire in there.

Could it be that my LA3 doesn't do DOL correctly for a tripminder? I thought they all did..

Stock 1988 Ford Turbo Coupe
Bird Blog Adventures in restoration.
Reasons why men do these things:

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