North American Turbocoupe Organization



tire size q/a
dd88T/C Offline
Senior Member
#21
you wouldnt need bigger brakes if the wheels werent so massive. heavier wheels add weight to cars, so they need larger brakes.
'88 tc daily driver
.48 t3, stinger fmic, boblog, ebay twin piston BOV, 3" stinger dp, 3" exhaust shop straight pipe to the axle, ported/knifed lower, gutted upper, 3" intake tube & k/n filter, kirban fpr (42 psi), walboro 255, gillis @ 22 psi, pony wheels
shelf:
sn95 tb, rr, zeitronix zt2 wideband, magnaflow muffler/turndown, MAF swap, tune
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1sicpony Offline
Senior Member
#22
dd88, Very good point. I have heard a few complaints from people about the weight of their newly acquired big wheels.
bobby mac

88 TC gillis, modified air filter, 9K
06 ViperTruck,NightRunr 190 of 400
13 copperhead dodge ram hemi
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dd88T/C Offline
Senior Member
#23
im more for the function over looks. personally i think large wheels look stupid, and can take away from the stance of a car. my honda is a suspension whore, so stance is something very important (esp since its built to TURN). the right wheel and tire size can make or break performance and the way a car sits.
'88 tc daily driver
.48 t3, stinger fmic, boblog, ebay twin piston BOV, 3" stinger dp, 3" exhaust shop straight pipe to the axle, ported/knifed lower, gutted upper, 3" intake tube & k/n filter, kirban fpr (42 psi), walboro 255, gillis @ 22 psi, pony wheels
shelf:
sn95 tb, rr, zeitronix zt2 wideband, magnaflow muffler/turndown, MAF swap, tune
Reply

TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#24
I can tell you from experience, that the following combination is perfect in my opinion. Some may feel you can go wider and depending on the use possibly true, but for street/track use 245/40/18 tires are a great size. I am using 18 x 8 wheels and as long as they work with fox body mustang they should fit as far as backspacing. It will be almost an inch smaller diameter but i wanted the stiffer sidewall, besides my car is lowered, and this would also lower the center of gravity slightly more (0.5"). Stock diameter would be 245/45/18. Also the bigger wheel weight rumor is a waste of time, if you don't like bigger wheels then thats fine, but notice how the new high powered/extreme handling cars have large wheels. My G35 has 19" wheels stock. I am sure at some point there is limit for size because of inertia reasons, but my experience says its not an effect yet. I know my G35 isn't better because it has smaller winter wheels on it now. I know when i put 18" wheels on my tbird (2003) people said how it wasn't designed for that, and weight and bla bla bla. I can guarantee that none of them had taken a ride in my car at the time. Besides we are talking about new lighter than stock snowflake hi performance (not ford assembly line cast part) wheels.

Also i don't mean this in a negative way i love driving all cars that handle but a turbo coupe with suspension/tire mods will destroy a honda with suspension mods. I have completely SHOCKED people with this setup in a 88 tc. Don't get me wrong i did not JUST do tires/wheels. They handle amazing especially with some lowering and stiffer springs/struts, and in my opinon are much more predictable/controlable in a loose condition, however some people like the cooshier ride instead so its all in what you want.

Wheels:
http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...C00181.JPG
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
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dd88T/C Offline
Senior Member
#25
Ill put my honda against your tc on the skid pad any day, all ill destroy that tc with some measly 15x7 wheels on my honda. not trying to be a jerk either man, but this car is purpose built to turn. auto x and circuit courses are its home (althought it went 13.2 at the strip with a crap 1.8 60' time on dr's). no joke. not only that, but that fwd honda will out-brake that tc into any high speed turn. Ive driven plenty of cars with suspension/tire mods, as have many other ppl that will vouch for the honda on this one. its stiffer and nibler than most cars out there. believe me when i say the only other suspension mod i can do is a cage. that being said, rwd and fwd cars are differnt animals when they turn. its all in the driver. ive been fortunate to drive both with lots of seat time.
'88 tc daily driver
.48 t3, stinger fmic, boblog, ebay twin piston BOV, 3" stinger dp, 3" exhaust shop straight pipe to the axle, ported/knifed lower, gutted upper, 3" intake tube & k/n filter, kirban fpr (42 psi), walboro 255, gillis @ 22 psi, pony wheels
shelf:
sn95 tb, rr, zeitronix zt2 wideband, magnaflow muffler/turndown, MAF swap, tune
Reply

TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#26
I would love to take you up on that. I have family in tampa fl as well would be a fun road trip unfortunately ive been working too much and still need to finish a few things exhaust custom SS DP and finish breaking in the engine and some rough tuning.

Honestly any race built car will handle. no doubt a honda would out brake a tc is alot heavier, but i meant high speed handling. All things being equal, and both either built up or stock, my vote is on a tc, no offense because i don't know your specific car this is just my experience. I don't doubt your skills in driving, but that is my opinion. I started driving quarter midgets at age 8 and have plenty of driving experience. Personally i hate how a fwd car drives. Altho i like a loose car vs. a car that has push. Just a preference. Short wheel base cars do handle well, just my personal experience i've never driven a honda that could even come close to comparing to my tc. Probably best we agree to disagree, unless i can get to tampa (after i get mine on the road again).

All in all i just wanted someone who is interested in upgrading their wheel/tire package that in my opinion it is totally worth it. I realize this is not for everyone however.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
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dd88T/C Offline
Senior Member
#27
Ill agree to disagree then. I would love to let you take a trip around a curvy road in the honda. Its set up to over steer on entrance, and when you hit the apex it sticks like glue. I dont think my balls are big enough to see how late I can brake before I get it loose. Again, completely different driving styles with fwd and rwd. Fwd needs to be taken deep into the corner and then whipped around it like a roller coaster. If you do that with a rwd car, the back end breaks free and you end up drifting. I will set my TC up with some suspension goodies and good tires soon enough, so I guess if you dont make it to tampa I can make the comparrison myself. What is your suspension setup on the TC? Raceweight? Brake setup?
'88 tc daily driver
.48 t3, stinger fmic, boblog, ebay twin piston BOV, 3" stinger dp, 3" exhaust shop straight pipe to the axle, ported/knifed lower, gutted upper, 3" intake tube & k/n filter, kirban fpr (42 psi), walboro 255, gillis @ 22 psi, pony wheels
shelf:
sn95 tb, rr, zeitronix zt2 wideband, magnaflow muffler/turndown, MAF swap, tune
Reply

TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#28
Yeah i have a different driving style then that, I'd rather have a controlled edge of being loose vehicle whether entering late and fast or early and slower. This could be argued forever, because it is a driving style difference.

As far as my handling mods:

AGR replacement power steering pump
new repacement rack (autozone, inexpensive)
Maximum motorsports ford replacement sn95 control arms (only slightly more expensive then buying new control arm bushings and ball joints and alot quicker if you dont have a press)
Maximum motorsports CC plates
Koni front sn95 struts (yellows) adjustable turns (set 3/4 way firm forget the turn count)
Koni rear shocks (reds) adjustable turns (set halfway firm for get the turn count)
Eibach 1" lowering springs
New spring isolators (tbird where available and 87-93 mustang otherwise)
18 x 8" wheels - 245/40/18 tires
(bridgestone pole positions work great but cost $200 each and only last me about a year with hard driving, ive since used $100 each summitotos)
Replacement cross drilled rotors and performance brake pads (forget the brand, its been a while)
ATE super blue brake fluid

I'm sure coil overs are a great option, but i really like this setup and the koni's are rebuildable.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
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dd88T/C Offline
Senior Member
#29
sounds like a good set up. some body roll mods would do you well also. at least a tower bar for the front and some sway bar bushings if you cant find beefier sway bars. it is definately a driving preference. personally, i love out-braking people into corners. it makes them think my balls are bigger lol. just kidding. my question to you is though, why do you have your rear stiffer than the front? isnt the idea with a rwd car to keep the weight over the rear so you dont get loose?
'88 tc daily driver
.48 t3, stinger fmic, boblog, ebay twin piston BOV, 3" stinger dp, 3" exhaust shop straight pipe to the axle, ported/knifed lower, gutted upper, 3" intake tube & k/n filter, kirban fpr (42 psi), walboro 255, gillis @ 22 psi, pony wheels
shelf:
sn95 tb, rr, zeitronix zt2 wideband, magnaflow muffler/turndown, MAF swap, tune
Reply

TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#30
i want to do sub frame connectors and and eventually rear control arms but haven't had time, beside i really like the feel of it now, and it doesn't take road bumps and elevation changes that hard (big deal on pa twisty roads WITH potholes) but still grips well. I did do sway bar bushings just forgot to mention, replaced all suspension bushings. Personally i like the stock sway bars with the eibachs, very flat can controllable feel even when i slips out loose a little, it then just straightens back up without countersteer.

the fronts are slightly stiffer (3/4 or 75% firm) while the rears are 1/2 50% firm. Also the eibach springs are alot stiffer in the front compared to the rear.

I agree i normally brake very late but i normally use the tires to slow me down as well as throttle steering, i try to use the brakes as little as possible and thats why i didn't bother with to much of a brake upgrade.

Good luck with your car im sure you will be impressed with how much better it handles a little lower and stiffer, and minimal tire roll.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
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