Time for next mod.

Well, I got the CF Dual Friction in. Not too bad of a job at all really. The reason it took me longer was because one of the damn transmission bolts snapped off. Then one of the bolts snapped off that mounts the starter to bell housing. Luckily we got it all off and got the bolts out easily and got the clutch in. All we had to do was take off the DP and converter, Driveshaft, Tranny, Starter, and Bell Housing. The clutch feels nice, it's a real light pushing feel. It's just so different to my other clutch, I have to get used it. I can definately feel that it grabs each gear aggressively and I got a feeling I'll be chirping 2nd and 3rd easy as shit.

I guess now I'll focus on getting the 3" DP, 3" converter, dyno ultra flows, etc and get this exhaust done. Right now if I give it throttle and let off I hear a "popcorn in the muffler" sound (which is actually a crack in the muffler) and I have an exhaust leak so I'm getting a really light sounding fag exhaust sound (like a honda).

I also wanna save up for the Bosch Bypass Valve or HKS SS BOV.

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1988 TurboCoupe - 5 Speed
6" K&N In Front Of Radiator, Gillis Valve @ 15 psi, Centerforce Dual Friction

Use a bypass valve, not a blow off valve. A BOV vents metered air to the atmosphere and results in a rich condition whenever it is operating.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

and get a Rich Gillis Bypass Valve