North American Turbocoupe Organization



Thoughts on 3G upgrade, and odd condition I currently have.
Riverratt Offline
Junior Member
#1
1st off, I took my 85 out for a romp today! Noticed when I got home tonight, my fog lights did not work (they did last time I used them and it has a new headlight switch, w/heatsink) Also the driver's side parking light was completely out, and the pass side was lit..

But when I used the turn signal, the Driver's side worked, and the pass side did not flash..

The tail lights functioned normally thru out the tests.

Odd..I guess both bulbs have filaments that are blown.. Strange that one would be blown one way, and the other blown another, at the same time.

Also (odd to me anyway) that the "blinker" still worked, in the past when a bulb was out on other cars I have owned, the blinker quit working. I guess things are different on older Fords, which I have limited experience with.

O well, I will sort it out it another day, she gets to go back to hibernate for a while long as a major winter storm is bearing down on us.

Now to the 3G question. I have read the TECH article and I was wondering, if my amp gauge does not work, can I get by with simply running a good heavy gauge wire from the output stud on the alternator to the starter solenoid, fitted of course with a fuse?
Current Turbo Car, 1985 5 speed TC. TC intercooler,87 TC hood, 3 inch down pipe, cat delete with 3 inch tailpipe, K&N cone, T3, Gillis, Dual piston BOV.

Past Turbo Cars

1-1987 Dodge Shelby Z Daytona
1-1986 Dodge Shelby Charger
1-1985 Dodge Shelby Charger/ Intercooled
1-1985 GLH-T Dodge Omni
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
You have a bulb grounding problem. Likely corrosion / bad contacts in the bulb socket(s).

3G: do whatever you want as far as wiring. Try it and see if it works or you overheat some of the wiring. The wire from the "big splice" junction to the starter solenoid isnt that heavy of a gauge, as it is only designed to carry a portion of the current used to run most of the cars electricals and to charge the battery. Personally, I would not trust that wire to carry much of the electrical load for the entire car for extended periods of time, which is what it would be doing of running the alt output directly to the starter solenoid.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Riverratt Offline
Junior Member
#3
Ok, Why couldn't one just run the output stud directly to the positive termanal of the battery then?

I was wondering why everyone was running them to the solenoid switch instead.

Thanks for the word about the turn signals, when the weather breaks, I will get on it.
Current Turbo Car, 1985 5 speed TC. TC intercooler,87 TC hood, 3 inch down pipe, cat delete with 3 inch tailpipe, K&N cone, T3, Gillis, Dual piston BOV.

Past Turbo Cars

1-1987 Dodge Shelby Z Daytona
1-1986 Dodge Shelby Charger
1-1985 Dodge Shelby Charger/ Intercooled
1-1985 GLH-T Dodge Omni
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Positive terminal of the battery is connected to the solenoid with a very heavy gauge batt cable. For all intents and purposes, the solenoid and batt pos terminal are electrically the same. In either case, the smaller gauge wire from the solenoid to the "big splice" is still the big electrical bottleneck.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

Riverratt Offline
Junior Member
#5
Ok, I understand what your saying. When the weather outside breaks, I will go and take a good look at this. I am a bit uncomfortable with this sort of upgrade. Currently I am not having any alt. problems. So I can look into all this and plot my next course of action.

In today's world with our smart phones, stereos and other electrical gear the stock alt setup in the car now, just won't cut it.

I just wish I had a photograph of the work done at the "big splice" Do you happen to have any, or know where one is?

And thanks for your help, it is sincerely appreciated!!
Current Turbo Car, 1985 5 speed TC. TC intercooler,87 TC hood, 3 inch down pipe, cat delete with 3 inch tailpipe, K&N cone, T3, Gillis, Dual piston BOV.

Past Turbo Cars

1-1987 Dodge Shelby Z Daytona
1-1986 Dodge Shelby Charger
1-1985 Dodge Shelby Charger/ Intercooled
1-1985 GLH-T Dodge Omni
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
Have you looked at my tech article on the 3G converion? There are a few pics there.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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