The Surgury

So of course the first order of bidness is to yank the motor/tranny, and throw a gasket set at them. i got two IHI turbos with the car, I swapped em for one bigger one (i'm a turbo noob so i dont know its exact specs), of course I intend to add a fmic, and manual boost controller, as well as a 3" single exaust, and cold air induction. I've already ordered the walbro,

I intend to have the head polished, as well as some mild porting.

I intend to run 93 octaine, i dont intend to buy a piggyback at this time, should I?

Whats the max boost these motors can handle and still be daily drivable?

Should I wrap the exaust manifold with header tape?

tyia

YEARS LATER NINJA EDIT:

This should have read: Hi. Just bought my first turbo automobile. I know nothing about how it works. Please help me.

rok

Start here;
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Mods/Mods01.htm

Boost is not the criteria to worship with turbos. Air flow is what makes power. A small turbo won't flow as much air at a given psi as a larger turbo.
The sensible plan is to size a turbo to the goals you have for the engine while maintaining reasonable efficiency ( so the compressed air is not too hot) while keeping turbo lag with in reason. There are always trade offs. Understand them before you buy.

If this is the black 88 with auto trans that you posted about, one of your earliest mods should be to swap it for a 5 speed. There is a reason why the 87-88 TC with autos were detuned by 35 HP. The A4LD, stock form is a POS.

Head work is nice and the head needs it. However, opening up the head is a waste until the whole exhaust system is improved. Do some reading on exhaust system improvements.

Wrapping the exhaust manifold may improve power slightly, but puts more stress on the metal. Since the exhaust manifolds already have a tendency to crack, I wouldn't recommend it. I look at wrapping as one of the things at the end of the mods list, not near the top. Getting the manifold ported or getting a header would be a much better bang for the buck and more practical.

Research your turbo! Find out what it is. If the person you swapped from doesn't know, then do what you need to get some measurements of the wheels. A larger turbo can and will exceed the fuel capability. Do your homework

lol, ya, I was sorta hittin the highlights, I've been lookin around.. the turbo itself has AR .63 on the non polished part, on the polished part there are no markings, the hole where the air intake connects measures 2.5"I.D., the inter cooler connection is 1.75"I.D., from the centerline of the shaft its 3" to the edge of th housing. it's supposedly ceramic ball bearing, but I'm a noob :p In my defense the origional trade was for an EVO T70, but i was afraid it was too big.

YEARS LATER NINJA EDIT:

Should have read: Thanks for the replies. I'll go start reading right now

http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...drchkn.jpg

kk, so I revised my shopping list.. boost valve, k&n, already waiting on the fuel pump..

added a ported lower/gutted upper..

i read somewhere about using a super coupe TB on a 2.3 anyone got links?

also id love to ditch the egr, is this practical


soz, im new :p

the turbo http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/00006520/turbo1.jpg http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/00006520/turbo2.jpg http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/00006520/turbo3.jpg

there is no reason to ditch the egr,

the don't open at WOT anyways.

well there is reasons to ditch the egr but most of them just have to do with getting new headers that dont have a egr port

When you ditch the EGR, it is easier to:
Check the oil
Change the valve cover gasket
Take off the upper intake manifold
Take off the exhaust manifold
Check fuel pressure
Do anything to the oil sender or the lines to it

BUT

Ditching the EGR won't do anything for your performance.

On another note, I wouldn't necessarily gut and knife the intakes on a car unless you are gonna have a high rpm quarter mile monster. If it's a street car, the intake work should be much further down your list in order of importance.