The Return of the Steam Spewing Head

Welp, it's back. After R&R'ing the head gasket, and having it stop afterward for around 500 miles, it is now back again. Steam Spewing, and coolant dripping outta the Exhaust Manifold Studs. Only now instead of being the front-most stud, it switches randomly between each one of the studs each time I drive it. After it has pushed out a nice puddle of coolant it stops, but air can still be heard hissing outta the stud it was coming out of before.

I think the head may be cracked, I don't know what else could be doing this. Can anyone confirm my fears? or is there something else I'm over looking.

Honestly, it has become 100% personal at this point, and I will be fixing this car regardless of what I have to do, or how much I have to spend, now.

Sounds like a cracked head to me. I would pull it and have it checked.

did you retorque the head after a few heat cycles.... it should be done every time you change a head gasket...

Yep, sure did, even though the Gasket was a perma-torque, I still did it anyway. Looks like it's time for another head then. Cause it is clearly cracked internally, as I couldn't see any cracks when I had it off last time.

Rock-Auto has a Marshall head for sale for $515 w/ $150 core charge, anyone had any experience with this brand before? Does it come with a Camshaft installed? If not, it would be the perfect time for a Ranger Cam!

2.3T Marshall Rebuilt Heads? Anybody?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=986305

Yes? No? Maybe? Run Far Away? Help a 4 banger noob out.

Are the fans working??? The right front head bolt has been known to break on these engines and develop leak at the right front cornor of the head to block...been there done that...have had numerous thermostats stick at times...warped head/cracked head/ should send to machine shop and ck for cracks...

Take your head (not your head... the head from your car ) to a machine shop and have it checked first, as Garry said. If it's cracked, this was posted by RDOG in another recent post.

Originally posted by RDOG:

Clearwater heads in Florida has rebuilt stock units, and if you ask for a ranger 92-93 cam, they will install it at no charge. I think the price of the heads is $375 shipped and they send you a return shipping label for your core, and it knocks off $30+ dollars

Should I really take the head to a machine shop, even when I already know that it's cracked? Could anything else cause steam and coolant to spew outta exhaust manifold studs other than a cracked head? Just don't wanna waste money for them to confirm something that I already know, is all.

Very Nice find though. So I take it this D-port head will work, even though they claim it is for the ranger.

http://cylinder-heads.com/details.cfm?itemid=1855

If so, I'm about to order.

My radiator fans are working, btw. Direct wired to a switch because, I've had the stock Bosch style 30amp relays die on me too many times.

It's not going to cost much just to have it check for cracks and warping. Unless you can clearly see the crack, you can't be sure without having it checked out. It could just be warped and can possibly be fixed for less than the cost of a replacement.

Not all D-Ports are created equal. That head that you posted most likely has heart-shaped chambers which would raise your compression. You can have it machined into an open chamber shape, but that's extra money. If you need a replacement, it would be best to call the company and tell them what you are looking for. If they do have one that they say is correct, ask for some photos to make sure. There are differences between turbo and N/A heads aside from the chamber shape. The exhaust valves in a turbo head are different than an N/A head. Turbo valves are Inconel and which is non-magnetic and capable of withstanding high heat. If you run N/A valves in a turbo application you are asking for trouble. I think the valve seals are also going to be different IIRC. You need know the specs of the replacement head before committing to buy.