The Bird's Wings are Clipped...

Well, after replacing the fuel injectors(thanks Les!), upper intake, EGR, and O2 sensor; we took the car to get checked. It failed again. This time the tags are expired and we cannot get new ones untill it passes. Which also means I'm stuck driving the 6-8mpg F-250. It runs like perfect. Perfect idle, the exhaust barely smells. Still, it fails.

The good news is the Carbon Monozide is down a full percentage to just 4.92, but the legal limit is 0.97. What causes the high CO? How can I fix it. There aren't any codes anymore either...

The bad news is the Hydro Carbons went up. The legal limit is 152. Mine went from 245 up to 252. Aren't the HydroCarbons what the Platinum in the catylitic converter decomposes? Think a new Catco 3" cat would help this? I've spent about $240 in accountable costs to fix it. Not including the stuff I got at junkyards which exceeds that by far. If I spend another $60 on a cat. It'll be over $300 which is what I also need to pass. Receipts for over $300 in repairs or actually pass.

I'm also leaking at the turndown-downpipe connection, how can I seal the leak?

James

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Blade

"Drive it like you stole it"

88 bone stock TC with 138k, 5spd, burgundy, almost all options. Soon to have a pillar boost guage along with new tires, zinc plated rotors and a custom paint job

[This message has been edited by Blade1433 (edited 11-29-2001).]

"'m also leaking at the turndown-downpipe connection, how can I seal the leak?"

Try tightening the nuts on the studs a little
BTDT


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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 11-29-2001).]

Cute, Pete. Real cute. I guess I was wrong. Old people REALLY do have a sense of humor [Image: wink.gif]

Any kinda product I could use? Think Bondo'll work?


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Blade

"Drive it like you stole it"

88 bone stock TC with 138k, 5spd, burgundy, almost all options. Soon to have a pillar boost guage along with new tires, zinc plated rotors and a custom paint job

Blade,

What helps with the trouble your having with the E-check, try retarding your timing as far down as you can get it,just when you think it won't run, and throw about 3-4 bottles of dry gas. I actually know people that will stop in front of the station and throw some up the tailpipe.
For the hydrocarbon fresh oil change and new PCV helps with that. Did you get the fuel problem straighten out? I know what it feels not to be able to pass the sniffer test, I used to have a '74 Duster w/360 and I couldn't get it to pass either, sold it because of the EPA. So don't let them get you down there are ways around it, it all trial and error!!!

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'88 Black, K&N on VAM, homemade bypass valve....
future mods..4.10 gears and possibly a T-3

high CO means RICH! That is a test question taken right from the Calif. Air Resources Board Exam.

James, Maybe I misunderstood what you meant but I was perfectly serious about the fix I suggested. My downpipe, having previously been connected to an IHI, leaked a little after I put in the T-3. I fixed it by tightening the nuts that go on the studs coming out of the turndown.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

Chad, we've replaced everything to stock specifacations. It's immoral, but at this point, I'm not opposed to uhh... cheating. I changed the oil slightly over a month ago(600miles) and replaced the PCV around the same time. We(Les, Pete, dad, and I) have gotten most of it ironed out. Before, you got a nice buzz riding in the car(ask Pete). Now, it's not too noticeable. For the running rich we've replaced the O2 sensor, distributor, cap, plugs, wires, rotor, injectors, upperintake, EGR, TPS, etc., etc. Over at TurboFord, GT350 said everything might be metering right but for some reason it's not burning all the gas. How much is a new coil at Budget? I might stop in after school or drop in during a study hall.

Anoblefox, we KNOW!

Pete, I think the flange is dinged or bent or something. I do have a GIANT ball bearing I could reshape it with...


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Blade

"Drive it like you stole it"

88 bone stock TC with 138k, 5spd, burgundy, almost all options. Soon to have a pillar boost guage along with new tires, zinc plated rotors and a custom paint job

you can't find anyone at the local street races who can pass it? or can hook you up with someone?

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88 tc with many mods(now totaled)
88 tbird 351 w/novi 2000 paxton @ 26 psi
88 lincolin lsc, now with novi 2k power @ 22 psi(stolen, but returned stripped) oh no , they left the radio lol

loves to eat Uncle Bens 5 min rice rockets! mmmm mmmm good!

Dunno what you need to do exactly to make it pass legally but there are plenty of people around who will pass it for you. Thing is you might want to work on getting it runnin right...mine passed smog with no cat just fine so I dunno whats up with yours.

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87 TC 5-Speed. 5.0 T-5, .030 over 2.5 stroker, gouged and grooved bore. (Melted & Cracked) Keith Black Forged Pistons, FMS Valves & FRPP springs. Gutted Upper, knifed lower & E6, Minor Head Porting. Esslinger alum. flywheel, FMS SVO clutch & plate, Esslinger cam pulley, unorthodox pulleys, K&N, VAM Mod, ETS 3" DP, Dual 2.5 dynomax, teflon impeller'd 15k mile IHI, Brembo evolution rotors & 4-piston calipers, HPM Rear lower C. Arms, Griggs front A Arms & K Member, Max. Motorsports Caster/Camber plates, Eibach pro kit, KYB AGX Struts, Tokico shocks & quads, Full KB Subframe, PST Polygraphite all around, Lincoln LSC anti-roll bar (f), 225/50zr16's. 2kWrms Infinity/Clarion Pro Audio Sound System

Originally posted by Blade1433:
For the running rich we've replaced the O2 sensor, distributor, cap, plugs, wires, rotor, injectors, upperintake, EGR, TPS, etc., etc.

What about the fuel pressure regulator? A bad one would make it run rich.

I guess if they have to do emissions testing in the first place, it's sort of nice that they let you get away with doing $300 in repairs for that BS.

If I ran things, there would be no emissions testing crap, but you COULD be pulled over and ticketed for "Operation of an 87-91 Chrysler/Mitsubishi Engine". If you didn't fix it and get it to stop spewing oil clouds, the vehicle would be revoked and sent to Afghanistan along with a few dozen quarts of oil to smoke bin Laden out of his cave.