North American Turbocoupe Organization



Temperature gauge not working
gtbird Offline
Member
#1
The temperature gauge on my 88 hasn't been working very reliably for some time now. It started acting funny last fall. Sometimes it works OK and other times it doesn't register at all. All my other gauges work fine (of course the ammeter is useless). I've changed complete clusters, just the temp gauge itself and last Saturday I changed the sending unit. After changing the sending unit I ran the car for 10 minutes and the gauge came right up. Sunday morning I go for a ride and nothing. Since then I've noticed it will move a little bit, up to the blue area in the cold zone. Should I just build the solid state IVR as shown in the tech articles or do I have a differant problem? Adding an aftermarket gauge is another solution, but I kind of hate to have two of the same gauges in the car.

Thanks for any input,

Rick

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1988 T/C Silver with red interior, fully loaded except for leather. I prefer cloth anyway! 5 lug conversion with 97 Cobra wheels, Cobra 13" brakes up front, Mustang brakes out back, Koni adjustable shocks and struts, NOS Koni lowering springs . Maximum Motorsports control arms and caster/camber plates, subframe connectors.
1988 T/C Silver with red interior, fully loaded except for leather. 5 lug conversion with 97 Cobra wheels, Cobra 13" brakes up front, Mustang brakes out back, Koni adjustable shocks and struts, NOS Koni lowering springs . Maximum Motorsports control arms and caster/camber plates, subframe connectors.
SOLD September 2020. Will miss this car after 19 years of building/driving/showing....time for a new chapter in my life.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
You can't run both gauges unless you find another point to drill and tap a hole for a second sending unit. After market gauges come with their own sending unit which replaces the stock unit. You can't T off because there is no coolant flow in a T so the sending units wouldn't get accurate data. One solutions is to get one of Dave Godfrey's cast alum T stat housings which has a boss on it that could be drilled for a second sending unit. Talk to Scott at http://www.angelfire.com/pa5/srracing/srracing.htm and see if he still has them.

On the problem with the stock unit I think the problem could be in the wiring between the sending unit and the gauge. This would include the flexible circuit on the back of the gauge pod. You have eliminated the gauge and the sending unit, so what's left? The IRV is not the problem unless you are also having problems with your oil pressure gauge and you fuel gauge at the same time as the Temp gauge is acting up.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Letting the cat out of the bag is a whole lot easier than putting it back in.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 08-26-2003).]
Pete Dunham


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gtbird Offline
Member
#3
Pete: I wasn't intending on running two gauges, I just didn't want to have two of the same. I'm not having problems with the fuel or oil pressure gauges. I guess I'll have to trace the wiring and see if that's the problem. Time to dig out my EVTM and wiring diagrams and see where I should be looking/probing around.
Thanks,
Rick
1988 T/C Silver with red interior, fully loaded except for leather. 5 lug conversion with 97 Cobra wheels, Cobra 13" brakes up front, Mustang brakes out back, Koni adjustable shocks and struts, NOS Koni lowering springs . Maximum Motorsports control arms and caster/camber plates, subframe connectors.
SOLD September 2020. Will miss this car after 19 years of building/driving/showing....time for a new chapter in my life.
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