North American Turbocoupe Organization

Tell me about paint touch ups
ameswarb Offline
Junior Member
There are two paint related things I'd love to know if there was a way I could address them -- I'm getting white flecks from rocks and other things on my car's nose, and my clear coats starting to come off like something awful.

I'm sure many of you have had to deal with problems before, do you just deal with these or what? Getting a brand new paint job is pretty much out of the question due to budget constraints.
Owner of a Black 1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe

1BadBird Offline
Unfortunately there's not much you'll be able to do with the clear coat coming off real bad, short of a repaint. The white flecks from the rocks and stuff, just about the same thing goes for that. You could always use that colorwax for the different color on cars. I don't care for those too much though. Sorry dude.
86' Blue Turbo Coupe (resto-mod in progress)
86' Black Turbo Coupe (will remain mostly stock.........maybe)


tps87turbo Offline
Posting Freak
If the Clear is peeling or flaking off, the only thing you ca do it to have that panel re-painted & clear coated. That would be cheaper than a whole paint job.

As for the chips, you can touch them up with paint by applying layers of paint to build up the area. You must make sure there is no wax before appling the paint. I use a Match to fill in the chip & again the paint must dry completely between each coat. The chip should be filled up higher than the existing paint so you can wet sand with 1200-1500 until the chip is flush. Then a light compound & polish should bring up the shine.
Tony Sceia -

HIS Red 88 TC
HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Work in Progress
87 Gray TC Parts Car - Gave to BJL and is now his daily driver

DonH Offline
Posting Freak
As tps87turbo says for chips, I suggest buying a pint of paint to use for touch up. The pe-mixed touch up paints by Duplicolor that are available are generally too thick, dry too quickly and are hard to work with. Have the paint pre-thinned. Get some of those small plastic brushes used by modelers, like a pack of 3 made by Testors, to apply it. Use a fiberglass pen, available at NAPA and auto body supply places, to clean any rust out of the nicks before painting. Clean throughly with a prep to remove any wax.

Depending on the size of the area the clear is coming off, and by that I mean the largest area you are comfortable working on, you can sand the clear down to the base coat and apply a new clear from a rattle can. At places the clear is good feather the clear into the base. 1500 is good for final sanding before you apply clear. I suggest using NAPA Cut-in Acrylic Clear Coat for this. This is very thin, blends well, dries quickly, and is very hard. You can spay a small amount of the clear into the plastic can top and use a small brush to finish the nicks you have built up with base coat. Brushes can be cleaned with lacquer thinner (cheapest) but be careful with it as it is easily absorbed by the skin.
1987 TC stock except ATR 2.5"
1983 Pontiac Transam T-top 5.7 T56 [email protected] top speed: 176mph
1978 Fairmont 2.3 4-spd Big-top S/W
1946 Willys CJ2A 134.2ci L4 No-top

ameswarb Offline
Junior Member
Thanks a lot guys, I'll look into this some more. I'll post some pictures tomorrow of the offending corrosion. A lot of it's wearing off on the hood, so I may be able to do what tps87turbo said and have it repainted, I'm just afraid that it wouldn't really match the rest of the car. The other part that its starting to come off is a few spots on the hood, about right above where the driver would sit. I guess I'll give DonH's second method a shot for that part.
Owner of a Black 1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe

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