TC-88 no start, jumpy tach, TFI bad?

I think the distributor shaft was hard to get out because of 200k miles of varnish buildup on the shaft. Picture here: distributor_parts_link
It also shows the gear with the broken teeth. How much stress can there be on that gear? It only spins the distributor....

Is there any place I can get just a gear, without having to buy an entire distributor?

The aux shaft and distributor aren't sold as a matched set, are they?

The gear also spins the oil pump. LOTS of stress on it.

You can buy matches sets for aux shaft and gear ($$$), but a new gear and new aux shaft will be fine.

Hmmm. Guess I need to spend more time reading my service manual!

Do you know of a good source for the aux shaft? I can't find it available online anywhere.

Are there any tips on replacing the aux shaft? The manual is pretty sparse on info.

thanks,
Eric

I just went thru this exact repair this spring. I tore up my aux shaft about 3-4 years ago and let it sit around until I had some time and $ for repairs. So this past spring I found some time but of course no money but did it anyways.

http://store.esslingeracing.com
/cart/2_3_billet_intermediate_shaft_kit-details.aspx

"Esslinger Aux shaft" ($300!)is what I used. Cam with a brass dizzy for the Distributor shaft. And the real cool thing about the Aux. shaft was that it appears to be designed to be able to remove the gear from the back side of the shaft if it ever needed to be. I could be wrong but that's how I saw it and no one could back me up on this.

"Are there any tips on replacing the aux shaft? The manual is pretty sparse on info."


Are you planning on going hardcore... dropping the pan for a full metal cleanout, oil pump replacement?

I went over the top with my repair... pulled the whole engine to easily remove the pan for full inspection and cleaning. At 105k miles the oil pickup screen was spotless as so was the whole internal engine. I found no metal particles and the oil pump moved freely but replaced it anyways. Replaced front & back crank seals then buttoned it up and did the Aux shaft replacement next. All went fairly smooth and the Bird came back to within its first cranking.

good luck... any questions just PM me

Ron

Hey, thanks for the reply, and the source! I'm hoping not to have to go hard-core with this. I can't believe how much of a job this has turned into, when all I really wanted to replace was the TFI.

Can I pull the aux shaft out the front without removing the engine?

Is it possible to replace just the gear on the aux shaft? Esslinger lists a replacement gear that's a lot cheaper than buying the whole shaft ($77 instead of $307), but I don't know if it's compatible with the original shaft.

-Eric

The original aux shaft is one piece, no changing just the gear.

Aux shaft isnt very long. Comes out without pulling the engine.

ok, thanks for all the input!

A few other questions about changing the aux shaft:
- Are there any tips or guides on changing it? The service manually basically just says, "Refer to Fig. 30."
- How easily should the aux shaft pull out? Am I going to need a tool for that? Does the aux shaft cover come off pretty easily?
- Do the aux shaft bearings typically need to be replaced too, or are they likely to be ok?
- Are there any other mating gears for either the aux shaft gear or distributor gear? Or is the oil pump driven by a cam on the aux shaft? (That's sort of how it looks.... The picture in the service manual refers to a "fuel pump ecccentric," but maybe that's a typo, and should be oil pump? And why shouldn't the shaft parts be allowed to touch the bearing surfaces during installation??)

I have to say that I'd be inclined to just replace the dizzy gear, except that I'm ready to sell the car and don't want to skimp on a critical repair that someone else is going to be stuck with. The car's been my daily driver for almost 20 years. If someone else is ready to love it, then it deserves a good send-off!

thanks,
Eric

Bearings are likely OK. Inspect them carefully with a good light source and a small mirror.

The shaft should pull out very easily. Yes, it has a mechanical fuel pump cam on it ..... they never changed the design when going to EFI from carb and mechanical pump on the engine.