T5 swap

Just wanted to verify a few things. I'm getting ready to change to a T5 and I thought I had all my parts ready; T5, bellhousing, cluch, flywheel, LA3, shifter/trim, pedal ass'y, master and slve cylinder, trans mount.

I've already installed the pedals and there's two connectors I can't find in my harness, are they hidden or do I need to fabricate connectors? The clutch pedal sticks out further than the brake. Is this normal in a "swaped car"?

I've done some measuring and by reading previous posts, I think I need a drive shaft from a 5 speed TC??

The cross member is the standard auto single hump. Will the T5 mount bolt directly and fit correctly?

I read about drilling the tee fitting on the turbo to get the full boost allowed by the LA3. What size drill should I use or should I just go ahead and buy a Gillis valve?

I do plan on installing a new throw out bearing, pinion bearing, and clutch fork.

Can I pull the auto with just ramps and tranny jack? Is there enough clearance?

Lastly, I know the leather wrapped knobs are hard to find, does anyone have one they are willing to part with or know where I can find repro?

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NATO member

88 TC

Try www.exoticwooddash.com/shifter.htm for replacement shift knobs. I have not ordered from them but ran across them while searching

[This message has been edited by mmedic50 (edited 03-16-2002).]

I bought mine at a place called Mustang Corral. They have a web site, I don't know how to attach it like mmedic50 did, but the site is www.mustangcorral.com. They also have gotten me alot of Ford product cheaper than the dealership! Good Luck!

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1984 Turbo Coupe - currently under complete restoration.

To answer your questions:

The harness connectors are there, but they will have loop plugs plugged into them. Just pull the loop plugs out and plug the pedal harnesses in.
The clutch pedal sticking out a little farther than the brake is normal.
You will need a T-5 driveshaft and the T-5 crossmember, the A4LD ones will not work. You can change the tranny on ramps, but the higher you can safely get it off the ground the easier it's going to be. Don't forget to change your rear crank seal while you've got everything apart.

As for a leather knob, just get one from a newer Cobra, it will fit the same and look just as good.

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87 TC 5-speed Black, loaded. 17psi, G3 alternator, KB subs, Grant steering wheel, custom greasable swaybar bushings, K&N. Soon to have KB Trackit Axle brackets, Maximum Motorsports lower control arms, T-3, Saab intercooler, ranger roller cam Gen1 DSM BOV and rebuilt front suspension.

Unless you're the lead dog, the view never changes.

Thanks, I never would've considered charging the rear seal.

What about the speedometer pickup and the other sensor (neutral switch?) on the driver's side. Since I'm keeping the 3.73 rear will the one on the auto work correctly in the T5? The one in the T5 has been destroyed in shipping. The other sensor is wrecked too. Will it put directly into my existing harness?

Thanks

Actually, you can drill a hole offcenter where the T-5 tranny mount will go. The Auto Tranny cross members are beefier...



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Blade

"Drive it like you stole it"

88 bone stock TC with 138k, 5spd, burgundy, almost all options with new U-joints, tranny Xmember, front end, FULL tune-up with select MSD products, new horizontal axle shock thingies, custom interior, white face guages. Coming soon: boost guage and air fuel ratio guage on the pillar, Gillis valve, K&N, gutted upper, knife edged lower, gutted E6, T3, and steam cleaned engine bay.

Good...real good. Does anyone have any ideas on the speedometer gear or drive shaft?

Thanks

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NATO member

88 TC

Originally posted by abolt357:
...Does anyone have any ideas on the speedometer gear or drive shaft?

Where exactly did the speedometer gear sensor break? If the T5 still has the c-shaped clamp/fork on the transmission holding part of the sensor on, I think you are good to go, you will just need to get another driven gear for the T5 (or possibly cut the one you have - I forget whether the auto or manual has a longer driven gear,) and use your old sensor, which is still probably wired to your car, anyway.

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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe .

The plastic part of the sensor was just about ripped off. I haven't took either apart to inspect the internals. Hopefully I can just use the auto's sensor to get correct indication with the 3.73's.

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NATO member

88 TC