North American Turbocoupe Organization



T3 install write-up
trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Installing a T3 on an 87/88 thunderbird turbo coupe

Most would agree a beginner upgrade turbo wise for the latest bird would be a T3. If the turbo you get came from a ford chances are the compressor housing is a .60 A/R and the exhaust is either a .48 or a .63. The .48 has faster spool up then the .63 but will run out in the higher end before the .63 will. Depending on your application choose the one that’s right for you. To start will be a list of items I needed to make the install a success. Take note this is for guidance only work at your own risk and be safe.

1) T3 turbo
2) T3 return line, has a larger bolt flange then the IHI return line
3) T3 elbow W/ wastegate actuator this setup is totally different then the IHI wastegate so nothing can be used from the IHI.
4) Two 5/16 brake lines one 12” the other 20” both sold at autozone.
5) One street L ¼ npt
6) Two ¼ npt flaired fittings so the 5/16 brake lines will screw right into them. Bring the brake line with you and the turbo if you can to ACE hardware.
7) Teflon tape for supply lines
8) SVO compressor housing, unless you are going to make a pipe flange to mount the stock IC or grind off the ears from the TC compressor housing.
9) 10.9 class bolts to mount the elbow to the exhaust housing. I used 8MM X 20MM which were bought from www.mcmastercarr.com
10) VAM hose adapter to the compressor. You can use the IHI one and it will be angled down but can work with the VAM attached to a K&N filter and no airbox.


So to start off I drained the coolant, now is a good time to flush the system anyway since your draining it. While that is flowing out unhook the intercooler and remove completely. Unhook the O2 sensor and unhook all steel lines to the turbo this way you have full access to the nuts holding the turbo on. By this time you can put the drain cock back in for the radiator as it should be empty. Once all the steel lines are removed unhook the VAM hose from the compressor housing. No need to remove the VAM as it doesnt get in the way.

The 17 MM nuts holding the turbo to the manifold are tuff. I went to the local re-tool and picked up a used 17MM wrench that had a good box end. I had to grind it down to make it skinny enough to fit in the walls of the exhaust man. I also had to grind down the outer part of the wrench to make it as thin of a wall as possible. With this I was able to remove the top two nuts and the front bottom nut. With another wrench you can put the box end onto the wrench side of the 17MM wrench to get a bit more torque. Once everything is taken off the top time for the bottom. I jacked the car up and put the front end on stands. Remove the exhaust downpipe completely, whether you can do it before or after the cat it doesn’t matter the more room the better. I was able to do the job with it still hooked up but it was tight even with my skinny arms. Next take the starter out, this is another I did with it unbolted but stuffed towards the front. Now you have clear view of the bottom. This is where it is nice you drained the Radiator b/c when you remove the coolant return line coolant would flow out like it did all over me, have a catch pail there just in case. With the coolant return gone, remove the bottom manifold brace bolt. Then work on the last back 17MM nut from the turbo. The brace once pulled off the studs will fall down and out of the way. Now I unbolted the oil return from the turbo b/c I knew the flaired nut attached to the block would be a pain and it was. The turbo should pull off the studs now. Take the car off jack stands and take the turbo out and remove the return line. You need the 45* elbow that screws into the block so don’t trash it.

Now the install which is fun. Put the new metel gasket on the exhaust man studs. You might need to use a deep socket and hammer it onto the studs. Make sure the new turbo is put together correctly. Meaning the compressor housing is clocked correctly this way the wastegate will work. The best way to get it clocked or close is to loosen the bolts holding the compressor on with the wastegate on slide it clockwise or counterclockwise which ever points the compressor exit at a 110* angle from the exhuast manifold. This will get you close enought to the correct position. Final adjsutments might need to be made if the wastegate hits the manifold or anything else. Make sure the elbow is attached and tight. Put the oil return line on as well using good Teflon tape on the ends, clean up the return line fitting on the block too. Dont forget the gasket one the turbo either. I didn’t tighten the turbo down all the way till I had the coolant lines were mocked up. For the supply I used the street L turning straight up and the flaired fitting screwed into that. Attach the 5/16 brake line and come up about 4 inches turn it towards the head and when you get about 3 inches from the steel line that was used for the IHI, which will allow you to reuse the rubber line from the IHI. Cut the steel line with a die grinder, or small tubing cutter.

The return line you need just the 1/4npt flaired fitting to attach the 5/16 line to come out and make a hard left towards the back of the car. Run overtop and as close to the exhaust manifold as possible, drop down and about two inches loop it towards the passenger side and then run it back into the block. Once this is setup tighten the top two nuts, and all the new steel lines. Dont forget the Teflon tape on all threaded seals. A side note on the return line, there should be a fitting on the block to screw the 5/16 reverse flair fitting into. If not theres is where you might need a 1/4" brake line. After these are tight put the O2 sensor in, hook up the water supply and hook up the original oil supply line which will need a little bending. The Oil supply line should be handled with care you could risk the chance of damaging it. Don’t install the water return yet that will be later. This way you have room under the car to install the rest of the parts.

Bottom again, jack the car up and put on stands. Re attach the oil return, and now put the brace on. Slide it over the studs and put the bottom screw nut thingy back on. Tighten the bottom two nuts. Reach over the top and attach the water return. I said wait this way you don’t hit it and crack it or break it or you will have to bend a new one. Also a side note. If you don’t have a tubing bender use a small glass bottle and push on it. Go back under and install the water line. On my turbo (IHI) it used 5/16 water lines so the fittings went pretty simple. You might need to use ¼ lines. Attach the return. The exhaust downpipe flange needs to be grinded down to have the holes elongated towards the center b/c the T3 elbow studs are closer together. I cut it with a wheel and grinded with another wheel so that it was slotted. Also watch the location of the water return so it doesn’t hit the exhaust pipe. Now you can put the exhaust back up and reinstall the starter. Make sure everything underneath is put back on and tight.

Take the car off stands. Make sure all the lines are tight. Put the VAM hose adapter on so that it is facing down. You can still get the hose on it. It might be a little tight with the A/C stuff there but it can be done. Bend the breather line to mate the fittings new location. Depending on your compressor setup hook up the IC and make sure all your vacuum lines are back on and everything it cleaned up good and tight here. Refill the antifreeze. Take it for a drive and enjoy the new horsepower.

Notes:
The wrench is a biggy grinding it is the only way togo. Use Teflon tape on all your fitting connections. Be careful and don’t put any on the last thread , so you don’t risk it getting into the fluids. Take your time, don’t drink till your done. It took me 11 hours to finish this and still had problems b/c I did it in one day with a couple mess ups which is the reason for this write-up. Make sure you have all your parts before you start it makes it easier so you don’t have to run out every 10 minutes for new parts. All thread pitches are 1.25 and are all metric bolts and nuts. Watch the bends on the tubes you don’t want to close the tubing this will hinder flow. It might happen just be careful.

Tools:
10mm,12mm,13mm,16mm,17mm,18mm wrenches, channel lock plyers, I used a flairing tool for the tubing to shorten but it isn’t needed, pipe cutter, adjustable wrench, die grinder, files, jackstands, jack, sockets for the above wrench sizes with extensions. I could be missing some but this is a good start.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline

turbotbirdguy79 Offline
Senior Member
#2
Nice job man!No one should ever ask again how to swap it over.
1988 Tc,SC50(.63),Bosch BPV,Coolingmist methanol injection activated at 10 psi,FMS big valve 1.89/1.59 head,a234,ported E6,ported lower and upper intake,Gillis,3"downpipe,3"exaust,Kirbin AFPR,255 HP LPH pump,Racer Walsh adj cam pully 2* advanced*,K&N cone,MSD Blaster,autolite 103 plugs,T5 swap,3.73s,shifter,Centerforce stage 2 clutch,motorcraft tuneup.

Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#3
FYI, if you have small arms like me, you can get the bottom turbo to manifold nuts from up top if you remove the VAM and tie back the A/C line with bungee cords so nothing is in the way. You just reach under the turbo and pull towards you with your box end.
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3

trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#4
either way you have to go underneath to unhook and hook up lines. It was eaiser from below for me
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline

jtmbristol Offline
Member
#5
Nice write up Brian.
No doubt this needs to get posted on the FAQ link.
88 'Bird, 5spd, .63 T-3, ported E6, 3" into dual 2 1/2 exhaust, 1.89/1.59 valves with Boport 1.5 cam, Ram Powergrip clutch, stock IC.

trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Quote:Originally posted by jtmbristol:
Nice write up Brian.
No doubt this needs to get posted on the FAQ link.
Thank you, it doesnt matter where it goes as long as it is here for everyone to read.

It is funny b/c this "swap" took almost three weeks to setup. With getting the turbo rebuilt to making sure I had everything I needed when it happend. It wasnt as bad and if i wouldve have known what I know now it would have taken half the time. I had the old turbo out in about 2 hours, refitting and bending lines took some time but I screwed around with stupid little things that I shouldnt have. For instance, the oil return. Ithought you did not need the elbow and it would screw right into the block. I was wrong so i went out and bought a flairing too and a 5/8 reverse flair- 1/2 npt adapter. This made the line to long and it would not fit. I then tried crushing it a bit with no avaliablity. So when my dad got home off to the firehouse, so i could remove the rusted end of the old return line out of the 45* elbow. then the return line went right in. All of this took about three hours. In all honesty this was the crapiest mod I ever did problem wise, but all the working you do passes thru your mind when that turbo spools and the rear goes sideways and your doing a buck before you know it. I recommend this swap for anybody who wants togo faster. Compared to the IHI 15 psi with the IHI vs. 8psi of the T3 is about the power feel to me anyway. I notice a little bit of spool up lag vs. the T3 but I lightly ported the elbow and I have a 3in exhuast going on, which should ge rid of some lag. It was worth every pennie I spent.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline

AerobirdMotorsports Offline
Banned
#7
I second that FAQ motion! Gret write-up Brian!

powered by turbo Offline
Member
#8
Yep, put this in the FAQ section for sure.
1986 Mustang SVO

trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#9
up to Pete. If that is the case then I will go thru it and fix some errors I have.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#10
I moved a copy of this thread to the Performaance Upgrades forum, http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...1;t=000002

I'll leave this one unlocked if anybody else want to comment on the excellent writeup Brian did.
Pete Dunham







Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB