North American Turbocoupe Organization



stuck.... budget is empty and engine in peices
BJL Offline
Moderator
#1
well my budget for my engien build has gone about 140% over.
so far i got this
crank shaft kit with bearings
new pistons 30 ov, pressed on rods
blcok cleaned bored and honed
new gaskets (just need pan and cam cover)
Stianless water lines
BPV
complete tune-up kit
head gasket and bolts
timing componet kit

i was planning on doing this engine compltly up but was hoping it be done about 2 months back, but well it hasnt.
i had a thought hich i through it by a few close friends and they said either or.

my other option then finishing is just putting all these parts into teh current enigne int eh car to fix the rod knock and freshin up everything else, but not pullign the head.

i want the car back and driavble (with otu fearing a engien "explosion") but can't afford the rigns, head studs, rod studs, head port and polish etc.

so shoudl i freshin the engien int he car to get me on teh road agian or wait til sumemr to finish the ful project.
the pistons are matched to teh bore so they stay togther.
i know this seesm bunche dup, but if you understand it, please giev me soem feedback, i just want to drive my Turbo Coupe with otu a rod knock and a good amount of reiliblty with out spending anymore, i have l the parts to freshen the engien, just not the parts to finisnh building the block.

thanks Brian
Brian J Larkin
88TC 320k miles
T3, FMIC ,3in stinger exhaust, gillis,
255 walbro, afpr, 5spd swap,spec clutch, sn95 5 lug,.
89 Cougar XR7 3.8SC Auto
95 Ranger Splash 3.0 auto
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#2
I think you should go ahead and assemble the engine with what you have. Don't put all those good parts into your bad engine.

Make sure the head is in good shape or use the head from your current car. Take it apart and clean it the best you can and inspect the cam bearings, then put it back together. Run it and when you get the spare money, do the port and polish work or send a spare head to Boport on TF.

Get the rings and rod studs, don't worry about head studs for now. Just get a set of TTA FelPro head bolts to get you by.
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Rod K Offline
Senior Member
#3
Brian

If you just want to get it running it sounds like all you need is a crankshaft, pan gasket and bearings. Someone on here probabley has a used crankshaft you could get free or cheap and bearings arn't that much. I am sure you know you will either have to pull the engine or transmission to install the crank. I had a crankshaft but someone threw it away.
Rod Kiser, '88TC, 5 speed, 5 lug, Cobra 13" front brakes, Mark VII 11 1/4" rear disc brakes, PiMP'n, Bullit wheels, ATR 3" exhaust, Aluminum driveshaft, EDIS, 60 LB injectors, gutted upper & ported lower. NATO Member
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Sluggo Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Quote:Originally posted by BJL:
well my budget for my engien build has gone about 140% over.
so far i got this
crank shaft kit with bearings
new pistons 30 ov, pressed on rods
blcok cleaned bored and honed
new gaskets (just need pan and cam cover)
Stianless water lines
BPV
complete tune-up kit
head gasket and bolts
timing componet kit

i want the car back and driavble (with otu fearing a engien "explosion") but can't afford the rigns, head studs, rod studs, head port and polish etc.
Rings - $60 + s&h
head studs - screw that, use your old 12 pts.
rod studs - Are you using stock rods? ARP's $40 + s&h
Head work - do it yourself or do it latter.

Those stainless water lines and BPV are your budget problem. To late to fuss about it though. Just get the shortblock together right and you can go back in for the other crap. You're less than $120 from a nice shortblock. Go to the JY and get some ebay-ables. Smile

Find some straight 50 weight oil if you want to drive it now. That might buy you some time to get a letter to the North Pole.

If you don't do it right, you might as well flush the parts down the toilet.
Doug  
88 TC / T5,4.56,Log,SC60,NPR,2277,MegaSquirt
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
I agree with Doug, do the short block right the first time and forget about it. Forget the head studs. Get the good rod bolts and rings, gasket kit and put it together.
Pete Dunham


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Sqrlcage Offline
Senior Member
#6
General project advice:

You can do it...

Cheap
Fast
Right

Pick Two.

If your question is Cheap and Fast?, as you see, quality suffers.

Wait, use the time to gather the materials and do it right. As you see Cheap and Right takes Time. That's what you have and it's free.

I never create 'basketcases'. That is, I don't tear something down until all the material needed to assemble is on hand, or on the way.

If you have the time to do it over, then you had the time to do it right in the first place.
Sustineo alas, 1988, manual trans
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TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#7
I'd say if you need it done right away then, do the "important" things to get it reliably together and then do the "go fast" stuff when you can afford and have time for it. Its not that hard to pull the head at a later date. Not that its fun but it can be done and you can port it when u have the money. Do what fits your budget and time frame.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#8
thanks guys, yea it seems im close so il wait it out i guess,
doug ive been runnign 50 wieght vavoline race oil in since julyish,
and well i let the car idle for about 30mins last sautday and when i did a quick rev up she nock like a mother, more then veer before, seems as soona s my oil gets warm at all its knock, the first 5mins she quiet and perfect. i dont need the car right now, just if my truck ever sells i may need to assembly fast.

im gonna start settign aside 20 buckes here and thre for the parts, i really miss drivign this car. but dotn get me wrong rod knock or not im not affriad to rev ehr 5k and slam it into second just to hear the tires cherp. i gues i have a good short block minus a crank kit int he car now, lol.

il let her sit through the winter il get a cheapy car cover cover it and wait for the warm weatehr and parts.... guess il get the block painted in the mean time
Brian J Larkin
88TC 320k miles
T3, FMIC ,3in stinger exhaust, gillis,
255 walbro, afpr, 5spd swap,spec clutch, sn95 5 lug,.
89 Cougar XR7 3.8SC Auto
95 Ranger Splash 3.0 auto
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Sluggo Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Good decision. You will be glad you waited. You could try some gear oil in the mean time. Or some Motor Honey, or other super thick additive.
Doug  
88 TC / T5,4.56,Log,SC60,NPR,2277,MegaSquirt
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#10
wil that starve the turbo at all? i knwo the top end aps for wuit a bit on cold start ups due to the 50 weifght oil, but its not 100% 50 weight, its a 10w30 then it started leaking oevr tiem so ive toped off with 50w
Brian J Larkin
88TC 320k miles
T3, FMIC ,3in stinger exhaust, gillis,
255 walbro, afpr, 5spd swap,spec clutch, sn95 5 lug,.
89 Cougar XR7 3.8SC Auto
95 Ranger Splash 3.0 auto
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