North American Turbocoupe Organization



strange problem
goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#1
so far this has happened twice, randomly my car will just shut off going down the road, dash, lights, everything goes out like someone disconnected the battery. then it just comes back a minute later. my radio loses all its presets and everything, but the clock dosent? anytime ive disconnected the battery the clock has lost its memory too. but when the car shuts off the clock goes out too. any ideas? oh. and also when the power cuts out nothing works, not even the power locks or windows. and i have checked my battery terminals and connections there
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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88TCRider Offline
Member
#2
Ignition Switch? I didn't have as many things as you do shut off without reason, but it was a $12 fix, so pretty cheap if that is it.
88 TC 241K:
T3, bored .030 over block and bowl blended, harden seat added, un-cracked head from an 84 TC. Ranger Roller cam, upgraded valve springs, CP forged pistons, self-polished upper and lower intake, mild ported un-cracked E6, cold air intake, bypass valve, looking for 3" exhaust.
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goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#3
just replaced the ignition switch not even a month ago
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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firstsvo Offline
Senior Member
#4
I had the same thing and it was the ignition switch. If I pushed my knee up against the underside of the column, it would be ok. If I recall, there are 2 parts that have to work together. In my case, one part didn't have good contact with the other.
White '88 auto mostly stock, Black '88 5 speed nowhere near stock
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Tom Senior Offline
Banned
#5
Ok sounds like an ignition switch all right. But just replacing it wont fix the problem. The wire harness plug will also have to be replaced as well and that wont fix it. Here is what we do to repair this problem. We use a 75 amp bosch relay to slave the ignition switch. The problem is the abs controller is powered through the switch and the switch cant handle that type of load. As the unit ages it draws more current and then by by switch and plug. I measured the current draw through the switch with the pump running. It was a wopping 60 amps. No ignition switch can handle that much current. Slave it out or replace the abs with a vacuum unit. Hope this helps.
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firstsvo Offline
Senior Member
#6
Knew it was something like that. lol. Was a few years ago.
White '88 auto mostly stock, Black '88 5 speed nowhere near stock
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
Quote:Originally posted by Tom Senior:
Ok sounds like an ignition switch all right. But just replacing it wont fix the problem. The wire harness plug will also have to be replaced as well and that wont fix it. Here is what we do to repair this problem. We use a 75 amp bosch relay to slave the ignition switch. The problem is the abs controller is powered through the switch and the switch cant handle that type of load. As the unit ages it draws more current and then by by switch and plug. I measured the current draw through the switch with the pump running. It was a wopping 60 amps. No ignition switch can handle that much current. Slave it out or replace the abs with a vacuum unit. Hope this helps.
??? Both the pump and ABS computer are powered up thru relays under the vac tree. The ig sw only turns on the relays (about 120 mA per relay) The pump is supposed to draw a max of 24 Amps at max pressure (accumulator fully charged).
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Tom Senior Offline
Banned
#8
OK JEFF then why does the switch burn out and the connector melt. The answer is to much current through the switch. Measure the current like i did and see for your self. TC also burn out the high beam switch and i also slave them out. Do a current test and see if i am wrong. Mustangs also have the problem. And ford had a recall on all their model carline for a switch change. The new switch has heavier contacts. But they still burn out. Anyone that has a TC will burn a ignition switch and high beam switch without the mod i recommended
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#9
One BIG problem with the ig sw is the heater blower motor. The blower motor draws lots of amps on high speed, and all that goes thru the ig sw.

I agree that the current thru the ig sw is a big problem with these cars. I have seen several burnt out switches and melted connectors over the years. Using relays to reduce the current thru the switch is a good idea for sure. All I am saying is that the "hydroboost" pump and ABS system are already powered via relays, so they dont really add much load on the ig sw.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Tom Senior Offline
Banned
#10
Hi Jeff i stand corrected on that. I was thinking of the fuse link problem that blows when the ABS controller ages. I replace the links with maxi fuses and keep a fiew in the glove. You are right the blower and wipers draw loads of current. I did read the current and with all the loads on it was like 60 amps. The bosch relay does a super job of releaving the load across the switch. You can also use a 5 prong relay to slave the high beam switch. I wire it so that when the relay is not energized it is in low beam. When you activate the relay you get high beams. I leave the relay inside the colum covers. And you can make all your connections at the colum. I just got tired of replacing switches and harness connectors. Thanks for correcting me on that issue. I guess i am getting old.
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