John B
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Joined:
Dec 2015
New Jersey
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I'm thinking of putting a manual rack on my 88. The current system is leaking at the rack and at various other points so it's either replace everything or delete and go manual steering. I know the majority people aren't fond of manual steering but this car isn't my DD and I love the way manual steering feels on the road. I know others have used a mustang rack (our outer tie rods are longer)but what have people done with the PS system when converting over? Is there a way to turn the PS pump into a giant idler pulley? I searched and found that one member used the alternator brackets from an 86 ranger with manual steering but trying to find the upper and lower alternator brackets from a manual steering 83-86 ranger 2.3 is nearly impossible.
My other question is on the steering shaft. I already talked with the techs over at maximum motorsports and the steering shaft for the mustang will work. I want to upgrade to get rid of the jag joints in the stock unit. I haven't looked at the Chilton manual yet but are there any surprises to swapping it? Does anything need to be moved out of the way? Trying to get an idea before I start this project. Thanks everyone
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, Boport 1.5 cam, gutted upper, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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anasazi4st
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Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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John B Wrote:I haven't looked at the Chilton manual yet but are there any surprises to swapping it? Does anything need to be moved out of the way? Trying to get an idea before I start this project. Thanks everyone
The biggest problem you're going to have, IMHO, is the steering wheel. To effectively steer the car--three-point and sharp turns, etc--you're going to need a BIG ASS steering wheel (for the necessary torque), stock is not going to cut it.
My first car was a 1950 Oldsmobile, with manual steering and manual brakes. I swear, that steering wheel was more than TWO FEET in diameter (again, for the necessary torque). Even then, such turns were pretty much best avoided if possible.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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John B
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Joined:
Dec 2015
New Jersey
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anasazi4st Wrote:John B Wrote:I haven't looked at the Chilton manual yet but are there any surprises to swapping it? Does anything need to be moved out of the way? Trying to get an idea before I start this project. Thanks everyone
The biggest problem you're going to have, IMHO, is the steering wheel. To effectively steer the car--three-point and sharp turns, etc--you're going to need a BIG ASS steering wheel (for the necessary torque), stock is not going to cut it.
My first car was a 1950 Oldsmobile, with manual steering and manual brakes. I swear, that steering wheel was more than TWO FEET in diameter (again, for the necessary torque). Even then, such turns were pretty much best avoided if possible.
Yeah, I hear ya and even though a bigger steering wheel does indeed help with torque, you can still generate the same torque with a smaller steering wheel... just takes more power. I know a few guys have done it but searching for details is tough. From what I've read, it seems that anything other than turning the wheel at a dead stop isn't terrible.
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, Boport 1.5 cam, gutted upper, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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