Qwertys
Joined:
Mar 2004
California
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I'm not familiar at all with starters, all I know is that recently, after i've come back to my car and try to start it, it won't start. the starter spins, i can hear it spinning, but thats it. the crank doesn't turn, i dont hear any clicks or grinding, nothing. last time i thought i remidied it by turning the crank just a little bit, but this time I tried that, it didnt do anything. after turning it off and taking the key out, then trying again (after a couple tries) it worked.
I'm completely lost as to what can be hapenning.
'85 TC BPV and Ford FMIC
'88 TC Kirban AFPR, Autometer Boost, FP and A/R Gauge, 8.8 to 4.10 rear, Walboro 255lph Fuel pump, Garrett GT3071R T3/T4 Dual Ball bearing Turbo, Custom AWIC.
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Ryan H
Joined:
Oct 2004
Panama City, FL
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Either the starter has come loose (unlikely), or the gear on the starter let go (likely). Disconnect the negative battery cable, use an 8mm wrench to take the cable off of the starter. Then use a 13mm wrench to remove the 3 bolts on the starter and take it out for inspection. It helps to unbolt the 15mm bolt that holds that metal bar under the car (you'll need a breaker bar).
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Ryan Harris
88 TC, 5 spd, B&M Ripper Shifter, SPEC Stage 3, Walbro 190 LPH, Kirban, K&N, 3.73 rear, KS disconnected, BCS bypassed
'88 TC  Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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rairbird
Joined:
Feb 2003
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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If turning the crank helps, it may be a bad ring gear on the flywheel. Perhaps there are a few teeth missing, which might expalin why when you turn the crank manualy, and retry to start, it then engages because it mates with the teeth. But do check the starter out first as suggested by Ryan.
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87 T/C, 5sp., Hardened Crank, Crower Sportsman Rods, J.E. full floating pistons, .030 over, Total Seal rings, Head and Main studs, Ported/Polished head, 1.89, 1.59 S.S Valves. Motorsport Lifters, A-234 cam, Fidanza Adj. cam sprocket, ported polished lower, gutted upper intake, Rod's S/S headers, 3" DP, T04B 57 Trim, custom Stage III, Gillis BCV, Forge Bypass, K&N Air Filter, Kirban Adj. FPR, Walbro 255 FP., 42# inj., J3 Adaptor. GN intercooler going in soon.
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motormenace
Joined:
Jun 2001
Timonium, MD
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the starter gear is not kicking out to engauge with the flywhell. time for a new starter. now is also a nice time to replace the starter relay/selinoid.
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86 turbo coupe (14.12 sleeper)
...so you have a V8...isn't that cute...
86 turbo coupe (14.12 at 15 psi. sleeper) *gone*
...so you have a V8...isn't that cute...
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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I agree, it sounds like the starter gear is not being advanced to engage the ring gear on the flywheel. If that is the case you either need to get a new starter or get the old one rebuilt. When you remove it you also need to inspect the teeth on the ring gear. If they are damaged, you will need to pull the tranny and the flywheel and have the ring gear pressed off, flipped over and pressed back on. The ring gear gets damaged, in one place, overtime from the starter gear engaging it because the engine often stops in the same place
Pete Dunham
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Qwertys
Joined:
Mar 2004
California
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Thanks guys! I thought the starter had a clutch or something like that, i was close.
I'll see if i can get it off. [Image: smile.gif]
'85 TC BPV and Ford FMIC
'88 TC Kirban AFPR, Autometer Boost, FP and A/R Gauge, 8.8 to 4.10 rear, Walboro 255lph Fuel pump, Garrett GT3071R T3/T4 Dual Ball bearing Turbo, Custom AWIC.
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Qwertys
Joined:
Mar 2004
California
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Quote:Originally posted by motormenace:
the starter gear is not kicking out to engauge with the flywhell. time for a new starter. now is also a nice time to replace the starter relay/selinoid.
Why do i need to replace the starter solonoid?
'85 TC BPV and Ford FMIC
'88 TC Kirban AFPR, Autometer Boost, FP and A/R Gauge, 8.8 to 4.10 rear, Walboro 255lph Fuel pump, Garrett GT3071R T3/T4 Dual Ball bearing Turbo, Custom AWIC.
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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Quote:Why do i need to replace the starter solonoid?
If it's working fine, I wouldn't worry about it. On the other hand, they are cheap and it's one item that is nice to have a known good spare around.
By the way, if you need a new starter, pay the extra $$ and get a good one. Yeah the Auto Zone one has a lifetime guarentee and they will replace it, as long as you bring it back every 3 to 6 months. I don't like laying in the snow to change one out, either Pay the really big bucks for the Ford one or the moderately big $$ for the better one (lifetime guarentee) from NAPA. NAPA has two levels, get the better one
Pete Dunham
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Qwertys
Joined:
Mar 2004
California
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the flywheel is gone. theres a spot with 7 or so teeth ground out with 70% left.
any tips or hints?
i was looking at upgrading to a C4, would this be a good time? (although i dont have the money)
would replacing the flywheel be easy?
'85 TC BPV and Ford FMIC
'88 TC Kirban AFPR, Autometer Boost, FP and A/R Gauge, 8.8 to 4.10 rear, Walboro 255lph Fuel pump, Garrett GT3071R T3/T4 Dual Ball bearing Turbo, Custom AWIC.
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Walsted
Joined:
Apr 2001
Fort Worth, TX
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Replacing the flywheel is about six bolts harder than changing out the clutch on a manual transmission, and I got one from NAPA for about $60. I don't know about switching flywheels on an automatic.
If the car is an auto, it may be a good time to consider switching to a 5 speed, since the transmission will be removed, anyway.
When I had the starter eat teeth in the flywheel of a F250 with a 460 a while ago, the starter needed to be replaced as well, since its teeth were starting to go.
Hope this helps.
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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe with a few upgrades.
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