North American Turbocoupe Organization



Stalls when hot
kbern Offline
Junior Member
#1
Help!!!! I gave up on my daily driver. Its been dead in the driveway for two months. I have an original 88 turbo coupe with 140k. I have reviewed every post and fourm and replaced everything I could think of. Now I'm out of money and have lost my patience. All of my tools were thrown into the back yard many times and my neigbors are tired of the cursing.
The car will start and run on a cool day (below 60) then after approx five min will rev to 2k then stall. The valve cover and head feel unusually hot before the engine temp is even warm. On a hot day the cooling fan kicks on immediately and the car will not start.
I have a parts car with a bad turbo and swapped parts to no avail. (Distributor,TPS, and Map sensor, computer with relays next to map)
I installed new motorcraft plugs, wires, ignition module and PIP. I confirmed the correct timing (spout was removed), checked the inertia switch in the trunk, inspected grounds (engine to body, plug near the battery, computer in pass seat side kick panel, computer to turbo/exhaust manifold), replaced the fuel pump with a new filter.
The issue appears to be electrical or ignition.
It only shows a ck engine light after it stalls. I tried to get the codes but the CEL is flashing like crazy and I cant figure it out.
I have read other posts with similar problems but the forums always end and never give a fix/ solution. Can anyone help?
Stock 88 TC 5spd driver with 140k, and an 87 5spd parts car.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Quote:The valve cover and head feel unusually hot before the engine temp is even warm. On a hot day the cooling fan kicks on immediately and the car will not start.
Have you checked coolant level and flow in the radiator?
Pete Dunham


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kbern Offline
Junior Member
#3
I just ran the car and confirmed the radiator level and flow are both ok. I forgot to add in the first post....its not a clogged cat (I checked by disconecting/ hanging the y pipe)
Stock 88 TC 5spd driver with 140k, and an 87 5spd parts car.
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Jeff K Online
Administrator
#4
2.3T doesnt have a MAP sensor, it has a BARO sensor. Is the BARO port hooked to engine vacuum by any chance? It should be open to the air.

Any chance you can post a video of what / how the CEL is flashing when you try to get codes?
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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forditude Offline
Junior Member
#5
You have an ECT issue. Your cooling fans coming on immediately are a dead giveaway.

http://natomessageboard.com/cgi-bin/ulti...1;t=021013

You also want to check the hose fitting on the lower intake to make sure it isn't blocked. This might explain why your head gets so hot. Either your ECT is fried, or your hose is blocked to the point where no flow gets past the ECT causing false readings.

http://natomessageboard.com/cgi-bin/ulti...1;t=017300
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kbern Offline
Junior Member
#6
Jeff- I'm not sure how to post a video but I'll give it a shot. (I apologize in advance if I screw it up)
Forditude- How do I determine if I have a ECT or EEC problem? Or a clogged intake coolant line? The coolant line below the intake is suspect. I saw another post and noticed my hose looked original. Should I remove the intake to clean/ replace the hose and ECT? If I need to remove the intake are there any other things I should inspect/ replace?
Stock 88 TC 5spd driver with 140k, and an 87 5spd parts car.
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kbern Offline
Junior Member
#7
Ohh Jeff to answer your question the BARO sensor if not attached to vacuum.
Stock 88 TC 5spd driver with 140k, and an 87 5spd parts car.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#8
You have to post the video on another site that hosts videos and then post a link here. We are working on a video area but it isn't ready yet.

On the ECT. A really bad one will set a code. But a half bad one will not. Often a bad ECT or the blocked fitting that forditude mentioned will cause the fan(s) to come on late, at a higher temp than normal. You can run these diagnostics to help diagnose the problem; http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Cooli...ingFan.htm

The only way to check the fitting is to drain the coolant and pull that hose off the lower intake and run a thin screw driver through the fitting.
Most of the ones I seen off the car are blocked to some degree. It is a small passage to begin with. Let me add that if you check/clean it, this would be an excellent time to change the heater and "U" hoses on that side that may be 22 years old. NAPA p/ns for cut to fit hoses here; http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...086#000000
The "U" hose that connects to the lower intake may no longer be available but yo can just curve a straight piece of the right diameter heater hose.

If you need to replace the ECT, I recommend the Ford part as opposed to a cheap discount store part. This is one part where I don't recommend the NAPA part, at least the dark plastic replacement. Here is info about that PN;
http://natomessageboard.com/cgi-bin/ulti...030#000003
Pete Dunham


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kbern Offline
Junior Member
#9
Thx for the links Pete.
Since I had a positive direction I just removed the ECT. It appeared clean but will be replaced while im here. I will find a new ECT in the morning from Ford(Rockauto).
I want to check that coolant fitting on the lower intake. The hoses and clamps are the original. Do I need to remove the intake? If so do I pull the distributor again?
Stock 88 TC 5spd driver with 140k, and an 87 5spd parts car.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#10
You can replace all the hoses without taking off the intake or distributor. I did it from underneath. Not fun but very doable.
Pete Dunham


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