North American Turbocoupe Organization



Squirrel made a clean cut of my trunk wiring
RLW3 Offline
Junior Member
#1
When we made our move form KC to CO, I had to leave my 1985 TC in my mechanics parking lot for a year and a half. During that time, a squirrel (I know it was a squirrel because I found his dead carcass in there!) decided to make his home in my trunk and eat up nearly all of the wiring. Does anyone have any practical tips on how I should proceed or what I need to do (type of connectors, etc.) to restore them? I have already grabbed wiring from an 1983 TC.


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RLW3
85 w/88 nose; bal/bp, big valve, Lunati .500 cam; 120º intake; T3/T4E 50 trim; modified Stinger FMIC; DIY cold air; Bart's Works front susp; modified Watts link in rear; Cobra brake kit; Global West subframes; Lear-Siegler Mark VII seats
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Wow, that is a really clean chew thru.

Were the connectors themselves chewed up, or just the wires? If just the wires, patch with the correct wire gauge and match up the color codes.

If connectors are chewed, you could always use the 2 or 4 terminal trailer wiring connectors you can buy t the parts store for a few $$ each to connect the harness back together. I use those connectors all the time for adding extra electrical stuff to all my cars, and have never had a problem with any of them failing.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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RLW3 Offline
Junior Member
#3
Thanks for responding. I will have to pull all of that stuff out of the box where I tossed the stuff.
RLW3
85 w/88 nose; bal/bp, big valve, Lunati .500 cam; 120º intake; T3/T4E 50 trim; modified Stinger FMIC; DIY cold air; Bart's Works front susp; modified Watts link in rear; Cobra brake kit; Global West subframes; Lear-Siegler Mark VII seats
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T`s ol fords Offline
Junior Member
#4
I have done a lot of wiring repairs and I am not a big fan of inline butt splice connectors!! I always solder the wires together and use shrink wrap over the connection and I have never had a failure!! t`s ol fords



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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#5
^^^ Agree 100% on not using butt connectors. Solder, shrink tube, and then wrap with electrical tape for interior wiring, and spread a layer of RTV over the shrink tube / electrical tape for any exterior connections exposed to the elements.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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RLW3 Offline
Junior Member
#6
I thought it was going to be a bit of a project. I guess I will finally have to learn to solder!
RLW3
85 w/88 nose; bal/bp, big valve, Lunati .500 cam; 120º intake; T3/T4E 50 trim; modified Stinger FMIC; DIY cold air; Bart's Works front susp; modified Watts link in rear; Cobra brake kit; Global West subframes; Lear-Siegler Mark VII seats
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RocketshipChair Offline
Member
#7
+1 to solder and heatshrink. Just a heads up you can grab wire repair kits at your local ford dealer for a few bucks. Truly comes with the best heatshrink you'll ever find, comes with heat activated wax inside the heatshrink. You can also buy conduit tubing at most parts stores, cut yours back a little and cover up the chewed through area for added robustness to your repair.
Andrew
88 Turbo Bird 5 spd no mods
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