Somewhat disappointed with performance..

I want to do the usual mods to my bone-stock 88 TC, but first I want to make sure it's running right as is. I'm not all that happy with it.

It pulls really strong off the line, it spins the tires easily and pulls nice and hard. But once I hit 5000 RPM or so, it BARELY accelerates. The engine runs smooth and boost stays at 15 or so, but it just doesn't do anything. And when I upshift, it loses all the acceleration it had. After first gear, it feels about the same as my 3.8 '93 Cougar!

It does start to accelerate nicely on the highway at around 70 or so, the boost starts to come in with about 1/3rd throttle in 5th gear and then it feels pretty powerful. But downshifting into 4th make only a tiny improvement in acceleration and 3rd makes it fall flat on its face because of the high-RPM problem.

It has new Motorcraft plugs/wires/cap/rotor, and a Bosch O2 sensor. The IC hoses are tight and in good condition. The (paper) air filter is new as well. I'm aware that the K&N and boost valve will solve these problems, but I want to make sure that performance is normal for a stock model before I do any more upgrades.

The TC's with the stock ihi turbo fall off quite a bit in power after 5000rpm anyways, but it shouldn't be as noticeable as it apparently seems to you. Have you checked the timing? It's entirely possible that the timing belt simply slipped and is off a tooth or two.

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maroon 1987 TC 5spd

gillis valve set at 18lbs, k&n cone on VAM, removed A/C belt, unbolted exhaust at track,
best 1/4 mile: 15.10 @ 89.25mph

UPDATE: car blew the turbo on 8/17/01, so it'll be off the road until next summer when i can fix it.

After you check the cam timing as Steve suggested (see article in the Tech Articles0, check your ignition timing with the sprout out.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

youre lucky, my car cant spin the tires, unless its raining....then it spins them too much.

Thanks for the responses. I didn't think of cam timing, I did check ignition timing previously and it's right at 10 degrees with the SPOUT out and it does jump up with the plug in as it should.

I've mentioned on this board before that I get some pinging under light/moderate loads at low RPM when the engine is hot. I've done all the usual ping fixes and it's better but still present. Is it possible that bad cam timing could make it ping and make the power issues I mentioned?

I'm going to get the timing belt replaced soon anyway, the car has 78k miles and I'm not sure if it's been replaced since I got it with 76k. How much does a garage charge for a timing belt replacement, typically? I'll probably change it myself, unless it's not overly expensive otherwise.

Oh, and Sean--do you have a 5-speed? If you rev it up to 3000 rpm or so and slip the clutch a little to build boost it should peel out quite easily. If you have an auto, I don't know if that would happen unless they have a really high stall speed.

I'm going to get the timing belt replaced soon anyway, the car has 78k miles and I'm not sure if it's been replaced since I got it with 76k. How much does a garage charge for a timing belt replacement, typically? I'll probably change it myself, unless it's not overly expensive otherwise.

I would change it yourself. It is a good learning experience, and doesn't take "that" long. I think I paid $30 for my last one, but can't remember. A garage will overcharge you for the belt, and the labor too [Image: biggrin.gif]

I think I paid less than $11 for my last belt at NAPA.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

yeah, its a 5-speed, the only time i was ever able to spin the tires was when i would power brake it...which let to the transmission blowing up so i dont do that anymore. i used to have an automatic and it would do really nice burnouts, you just had to hold it for a long time to let the boost build up....that car launched awesome.

Automatic people should introduce themselves to a LINELOCK! Sure saves the rear brakes and does wonders for the Transmissions. Ans does wonderful burn-outs also!!!!!

Pete: think I paid less than $11 for my last belt at NAPA.

Damn ... once again, screwed by Ford.