North American Turbocoupe Organization



Something isn't adding up... (VERY long post)
Pete D Offline
Administrator
#11
Quote:the restrictor slows down the flow and creates a little more pressure in the core[quote]

Respectfully, the restrictor goes in the inlet hose to reduce the flow to the heater core to reduce the pressure in the core so it (in theory) last longer

I never though of it but I think Roger is on to something with the marine exhaust hose. I can guarentee that dryer vent hose will not work. It's been tried. I think the point of the stock VAM hose is more for engine movement on the motor mounts due to torque than it is for just vibration although it may serve a dual purpose.

My K&N is now in front of the radiator support bracket like Kev talked about. Originally it was behind the support and the VAM was moved back at least a couple inches. As I said above, I trimmed about 1/4 - 3/8 inch off each end and compressed more than stock and got it to fit in.

[quote]i've not been able to put all those pieces into a coherent picture before.

See the first book on the list at: http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/Idea_F...index.html
It's the newest edtion of the book I referred to above.

Quote:Well, it's been below freezing here for quite a while, and since I put in the new heater core, it doesn't seem to want to heat up... I'm begining to think the thermostat is leaking water by, not sealing like it should. That's a cheap enough fix, it's not had one put in it since I got it anyway, it's overdue.

Could be the thermostat. Have you checked the coolant level since the heater core replacement. These engines usuaaly retain an air pocket on a drain and refill and have to be burped before you can get a completely filled coolant system.

The "thick headgasket" thing was a joke. The cold weather probably has a lot to due with you being able to run that much boost on regular gas.

You spool up on th eturbo is good and makes me wonder if somebody has already done some work to the exhaust side of the system?
Pete Dunham


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danvhp Offline
Member
#12
Asimov

Check to make sure that the temperature blend door is fully opening. Mine moved out of adjustment during the heater core replacement.

Dan
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Chuck W Offline
Posting Freak
#13
F-2
I'm not too surprised that it's not pinging with the stock PC-1 ECU. 17# boost and no IC. Until you really get into things and start opening them up the brown-top non-ICd ECUs behave fairly well in that aspect. My 84 XR-7 was running on a PC-1 ECU at 17# boost, no IC and no KS and never made a peep. My XR4 which runs a slightly different ECU runs anywhere from 18-19# non-intercooled. The only time it ever made any noise was when the WGA failed and it was spiking 25#... (I wasn't watching the boost gauge and heard the detonation and was WTF? then I checked the boost gauge)

I would bet once things warm up you might need to run premium fuel if you don't get an IC on there, but then again you might not.

If you do an ECU swap to a later LA series ECU..it will ping on you esp without an IC.

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83 TC Clone, 87 Ranger 2.3T, 84 XR7, 80 XR7, 86 XR4 AND 88 Scorpio
NATO Member
83 TC Clone, 85 Mercury LTS, 97 Volvo 850 T5 Turbo, 78 Volvo 240, 93 F150
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SteveX82 Offline
Posting Freak
#14
On the boost response, that sounds just fine. I got ~22psi by about ~1900rpm with the 3" exhaust, so your's sounds right on target for 5th gear. Most of the 3000+ rpm results you might have seen in the archives are from 1st or 2nd gear pulls where the turbo takes MUCH longer to spool.
Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 148k mi, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, 50 trim t3/t4, 3" exhaust, Bamafuel, LM1, 55pph
Best 1/4 mile: 12.31 @ 110mph on 25psi
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Asimov Offline
Senior Member
#15
Quote:Could be the thermostat. Have you checked the coolant level since the heater core replacement. These engines usuaaly retain an air pocket on a drain and refill and have to be burped before you can get a completely filled coolant system.

I'm begining to think it's the thermostat more and more. I did a good air pocket removal. It's always worked for me anyway. Just park on a steep hill with the highest point in the cooling system being the the radiator cap. start with engine cold and with a 1/2 full overflow container (so you don't loose coolant.) Then as it warms up, start reving it up to 2500-3000 rpm, and the water level in the radiator will drop a lot. Add water, repeat, soon you won't be able to get any more in and all seems fine in the turbocoupe world!
(I would check it over the next few days and refill as needed, not all air will come out)

Quote:The cold weather probably has a lot to due with you being able to run that much boost on regular gas.

the cold weather is all i can think of. prolly have to turn the boost down to 12 or less when it gets into the 90's

Quote:You spool up on the turbo is good and makes me wonder if somebody has already done some work to the exhaust side of the system? -- Pete D

The exhaust is in horrible shape, mixed sized pipes, horrid welds, It narrows down to 2" at one point, and never goes over 2.25 (I could be slightly off on those numbers.) In the end, the hack job of a cat delete is my main exhaust restriction -- and i plan on going with a single 2.5" all the way back when the cash comes this way. (not looking for a race car, just a fast daily driver) [Image: smile.gif]

Quote:Check to make sure that the temperature blend door is fully opening. Mine moved out of adjustment during the heater core replacement.

I checked after I replaced the heater core a month or so ago, but the engine itself barely gets warm, the more I think about it, the more determined I am it's the thermostat

thanks again for all the help people
-asi
-asi

1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, gillis@16, timing @ 12 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)

[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
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Asimov Offline
Senior Member
#16
Just an update, I found a hose at auto zoo that appears to be a great replacement for the stock VAM->turbo hose. It's stiffer, more plastic-like than the rubber-like original, but the wire is embedded in the plastic, so there is no chance of it getting loose and into the turbo. I'll be putting it on tomorrow, will let you all know how it turns out. BTW, it was $6 I think, and stretches to 72" long. I'm probably going to use a short piece of it for my VAM->turbo, and another piece to move my k&n up in front of the radiator. My only concern is that it will be more likely to crack in time, and i'll probably need to keep a close eye on it... But for the price, i'm not going to complain if i have to replace it once a year Tongue


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1986 TC, k&n, [email protected], timing set at 12.5 (spout out) Very restrictive exhaust at the moment (sloppy cat delete by prior owner)
-asi

1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, gillis@16, timing @ 12 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)

[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
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Chuck W Offline
Posting Freak
#17
You may only need to run premium fuel when it warms up. As mentioned in my previous post, I never had any issues running mine like you are. The only exception was I ran premium fuel all the time and I never changed the boost setting and ran 16# or so year round...
83 TC Clone, 85 Mercury LTS, 97 Volvo 850 T5 Turbo, 78 Volvo 240, 93 F150
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