North American Turbocoupe Organization



Somebody please help!!!!!
[email protected] Offline
Banned
#1
hi, i recently bought my 88 5 speed turbocoupe and am looking forward to making it a quick little car and need some help with a few things. I have a non turbo block, is that the same as the turbo block? I am trying to build my motor so i can shift it on the street at 7000rpm and run low 13's in the quarter, and now blow anything up.The car will be a daily driver, and must last me for a while, but i also dont want to break the bank. Where can i find the parts to beef up the bottom end besides Arp's, Do i need to do more then just Arp's Crower rods, and a good set of pistons??Im looking to run the Crower rods. What type of pistons should i use? Im looking at the wiesco's or the stock fords ( remembering the car will need to survive on 93 gas, I will also be balancing the bottom end) What type of cam should i run? I Would like to do the T3 turbo swap since it is the easiest. Where can i find the rods, used turbo, Cam, Pistons, Or any parts for the engine, I am also looking for sub frame connectors, and other suspension parts, Where can i find all this stuff, i will buy used turbo, and suspension. I would like to Keep the engine under 1500 bucks, is it possible? What combo's do you guys think would work best?? I am new to this game and any help would be awesome. Thanks alot guys, and happy new years!
Please email me at [email protected]


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~ITaliano~
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GT350R Offline
Senior Member
#2
Well, unless you are going with a custom computer (EEC Tunner or DFI) you are capped at 6250 RPM. With that said, the bottom end stock will handel that with NO problem at all. Hell, my 150k TC daily driver sees that a few dozen times every day that it is on the road. My 160k GT used to only go out to see that(parked for body resto).

The non turb block is a little different. It does not have the hole for the oil drain back that comes from the turbo. Inside the block is cast pistons rather than the forged pieces that the turbo motors have. So even with a rebuild , you have to make a hole for the oil to drain out of the turbo.

The kind of stuff you are planning is not needed for a 13 sec daily driver and will also blow your budget away if you try.

Whats wrong with the motor in the car now? If it is not knocking and it shows good compression , then leave it in! Pull the head and do some clean up work. Replace the valve stem seals and decide if you want bigger valves. If the cam looks good and is close to stock spec , then leave it in. Get an adjustable cam gear. Reinstall with a Felpro 1035 head gasket.

After that find Sctur and read his signature. He is hitting 13's on a stock T3 turbo and some other toys.

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GT350R
#1978 20th 2.3 Turbo T-top
#3608 20th 2.3 Turbo T-top
WAY too many TC's and other mustangs!

My Garage
GT350R
(sold Sad ) 87 5speed, Motorsport head, [email protected]+2, [email protected], gutted or ported everything & all the typical junk.
84 Gt350 2.3T T-top
84 Turbo GT 418rwhp

My Garage
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[email protected] Offline
Banned
#3
The car has 85,000 miles on it, but has a Loud ticking, the previous owner told me it was the valvetrain, but im not so sure. I would like to do some nice high perf rods, and maybe a little strongr pistons. How much would rods, pistons, and that big head run me? What kinda Cam should i run, the Motorsport one, or the ranger roller, also what year ranger roller cam??? Also what kind of blow of valve do you guys run? Thanks guys

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~ITaliano~
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
If you compression, engine vacuum and oil pressure are good, leave it alone. see the article in the Technical Articles section titled "Beginners Mods for HP". after doing those, consider a Ranger Roller Cam and some porting work on the manifolds and the head.
You will want to upgrade to a T-3 or bigger turbo.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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[email protected] Offline
Banned
#5
Well since my engine has a knock, i would like to go the whole 9, get it balanced, get some new rods, and pistons, i want it to be safe shifting at 7grand all day. How good are the stock rods? How good are the stock pistons? Where can i find these parts to begin with, like the rods, pistons, all that? What year ranger roller cam???
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[email protected] Offline
Banned
#6
If i dont have to do the bottom end i wont, but i have a Very loud valvetrain noise,or piston slap, not a rod knock. My dad was a Performance engine builder all his life and says these Earlier 2.3 74-76 motors have piston problems which ford recalled, the rods didnt have holes for the oil to squirt on the skirts on early engines,i wonder if my car has the same problem, but in 77 they fixed the problem from the factory. my engine has good oil pressure, vac', and the turbo boost up fine and makes good power, just a Very loud engine, how are the cams in these motors? Could it be that? Anybody else have that problem? it is a 100% stock motor. What could else could it be? Owner said it has new timing belt in it also. This is why i am planning on doing my bottom end.But would not like to if i dont have to
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Blade1433 Offline
Senior Member
#7
Hey, uhh, think about the dates... The 74-76 had problems. Your TurboCoupe is an 88, whats the problem?

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Blade

"Drive it like you stole it"

88 bone stock TC with 138k, 5spd, burgundy, almost all options with new U-joints, tranny Xmember, front end, FULL tune-up with select MSD products, new horizontal axle shock thingies, custom interior, white face guages. Coming soon: boost guage and air fuel ratio guage on the pillar, Gillis valve, K&N, gutted upper, knife edged lower, gutted E6, T3, and steam cleaned engine bay.
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GT350R Offline
Senior Member
#8
OHC engines are known for being hard on cams. I have usually seen them wear significantly by 70,000. If you are picking up a noise it is 90% chance going to be your #1 lifter or cam lobe. As far as teh blocks go, I have not had one apart yet that did not still have the cross hatching in the bores. Inline engines dont wear out like the "V" engines do. The rods pistons and bottom end in these motors are very well known for their duribility. 7000 RPM is not a problem for them. BUT again, that is higher than the factory computer will allow. How are you going to get over the 6250 that is set in the computer?

A cheap check would be to change out the lifters with new ones. Stock Ford ones are arond 3 bucks each.
GT350R
(sold Sad ) 87 5speed, Motorsport head, [email protected]+2, [email protected], gutted or ported everything & all the typical junk.
84 Gt350 2.3T T-top
84 Turbo GT 418rwhp

My Garage
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brunos50 Offline
Member
#9
a friend has a 88 mustang notch that was bought at a junkyard with a non turbo 2.3! junkyard t3 went on, 24# injectors, home made 3" down pipe, 3" pipe to back bumper(no muffler)!
no vam, no mass air
orignally speed density set up
drives every day, idles fine
everything is ported, spools fast, will blow the tires away at random!!!!!!
91 Mustang LX 5.0
mods: built AOD, 2800 stall, 3.73's, BBK cold air, 1 3/4 Hooker equal length, BBK off road h, Flowmaster 2 chamber cat back, BFG 255/50/16 drag radial, NX single nozzle(wet)
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